STUFF THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN IN THE PREVIOUS BLOG POST BUT I FUCKED UP SO YOU GET IT HERE
Bruderschaft! While hanging out with my new Polish friends, I got to find out about the Polish version of Bruderschaft. Note, this is a German word I've never heard of before so I didn't know the Germans also had this. Weird. In the Polish language - like in the German language - there are both formal and informal ways of addressing someone. The informal way is usually used on kids and close friends. Anyway, how it works is that you link arms in order to drink. Apparently, several cultures have this tradition, but that is the only picture I've found of it. After doing that, you kiss cheeks. I don't know if it is left-right-left or the other way around but we skipped the kissing part.
I found a couple interesting things about the Polish way of doing it.
First, this is a 'once in a lifetime' thing with a specific other person. In other words, once Fred and George (for example) do it, they never do it again. If Fred meets Phil and does it with him, they are done on that part. After doing 'bruderschaft', they then address each other with the informal case.
Second, in the Polish culture, you don't look into each others eyes as you drink. It is seen as 'proactive' - the angry challenging sort.
And yes, I did bruderschaft with all of my new Polish friends and even poor Chris the Englishman. So, if I ever learn Polish, I can address them in an informal way.
TRAIN TO SARAJEVO
There were three main things I fucked up in my journey.
First, I got a 'whistle stop' train instead of a fast train. Basically, it stops at every little village on the way there. This caused my travel time to balloon from seven or eight hours to eleven hours. It was a fucking nightmare. Be sure to get the right ticket when you book a train!
Second, I had forgotten to get local currency before leaving. You have to visit the currency exchange but it is better than trying to lug around a heavy backpack and find an ATM when you get there. Anything to avoid more walking than necessary with the pack is a good thing. Also, some places - like Sarajevo - don't have handy ATM's at train stations. Even if they do, you aren't sure if you can trust them as opposed to ones inside in a bank with a security guard watching them.
Third, I forgot to get food and water - for an eleven hour train ride. Alarming for a fat man. Fortunately, for the first three hours of the train voyage, they had a dining car. I bought two half liter bottles of water and two eighty gram bags of pistachios. The nuts weren't very good. Total price, 1420 HUF. I remember reading somewhere that slaves on their way to America were stuck in ships for weeks and fed only nuts. I figured I could rough it and eat nuts for a day. Plus, I really didn't feel comfortable either lugging my pack all of the way to the dining car or leaving it unattended (though chained) while I ate a meal so it was hurry there, grab nuts hurry back.
Hopefully, I won't repeat my mistakes in the next country I go to - but you can never tell.
My great and noble thoughts as I was on the train (aside from my crippling fear of midgets punching me in the nuts as I law sprawled out on the seat) were that of Chokeahontis.
THE STORY OF CHOKEAHONTIS, INDIAN PRINCESS
Once upon a time lived the daughter of the head chief of the surrounding tribes, Chokeahontis. All of the chiefs immediate family were blessed with exceptional health and happiness, except for poor Chokeahontis. She was possessed of a psychotic rage that would cause her to choke the shit out of those she encountered. Because of this, she could not go and visit members outside of her immediate family. One day, two foreign explorers - just like Lewis and Clark but possessing sillier names - came to visit. Chokeahontis immediately attempted to choke the shit out of Lewis but he was able to redirect her hands and she choked something else. And was sprayed with a refreshing 'medicinal' substance. So long as she concentrated on choking this, she did not feel the need to choke other people. And Lewis seemed to enjoy it. Chokeahontis was so happy she offered to guide the explorers around to all of the other tribes she had previously been unable to visit. They happily accepted and went to visit all of the other tribes. Sadly, this caused all of the other tribes to get smallpox and die. The end. PS: Chokeahontis was a 'gasper'.
I have no idea why that shit goes through my brain, but now it may be going through yours as well. This makes me feel perversely better. I suppose it may be either a sense of sadism or schadenfreude on my part.
BACK TO THE TRAIN INSTEAD OF THE DISEASED RAMBLINGS OF LOGAN'S BROKEN BRAIN
So, the train then went through several border control check points. I have no clue at all which countries I went through. I suspect Croatia but there were a total of six border checks - that implies three countries to me. You get one border check when you're leaving a country and one when entering a country. I have no idea what the third one was. Logan Horsford - world traveler. And he has no clue what country he is in. For some reason, I imagine Jana saying "Good on ya".
The border control uses some sort of box that appears to be about as large and heavy as babies women carry around in the slings on front of their bodies. This is for sticking your passport into and allowing the box to do something mysterious. Maybe it checks to see if it is a real passport. Maybe it tells someone where you are. Maybe it gives attack coordinates to an alien invasion fleet. I just don't know.
Two of the border guards stick out in my mind. One was very careful not to look at me while I sat there with the large, cartoon grin on my face. I was trying to appear as non-threatening as possible. She had large, impractical hoop earrings in her head. Not a good thing for someone carrying a gun to wear. The other lady looked very much like Amy Lee from the musical group Evanescence. Now, I do realize that people might think that I'm hallucinating again. I still do think it was Robert De Niro I saw in Amsterdam (I'd swear it was him). I don't think this guard was Amy Lee but I do think she could have worked as her stunt double. She was way too good looking to be in a 'border control' field. She was messing up the 'average look'. [Note - if good looking border guard women wish to object to this sort of stereotyping, feel free to submit pictures of yourself in uniform. They will be posted for the audience to make a decision. If you don't want to submit a photo, you'll just have to live with the stereotype.]
In addition to having my passport literally checked six different times, my train ticket was also checked six different times by different conductors as they kept switching them in each country. Keep your ticket and passport handy!
All of the passport checks were extremely perfunctory. I could have had nothing but a backpack full of condemns or cocaine and nobody would have ever known. [Disclaimer: I have nothing illegal on me if you are a good looking border guard who is still upset about the earlier stereotype remark.]
Yes, I managed to sneak off an back on the train after the border checks for a quick smoke. I am a bad man. Note that when the conductor whistles loudly, you've got just a few seconds to re-board the train. Lots of fun there.
On the train, I literally had my own compartment until I hit Bosnia when it suddenly filled up. Prior to that, the train seemed mostly empty and I contented myself with having Vietnam flashbacks while I was headed to 'the heart of Charley'. I wonder if I'll have more Vietnam flashbacks when I get to Vietnam?
I in all of the countries that had communists running them (including this one) I keep passing masses of the communist style block homes. I wonder "Fuck - where the hell did everyone live before the communists came?"
If I didn't note it before, the train from Budapest to Sarajevo is 14470 HUF.
Sometimes, when you are on the train for close to a half day, you may find yourself wanting to put your feet on the unoccupied seat opposite. Many conductors don't seem to care, others get as offended as they would if you raped their dog.
Once we got into the Bosnia area, I had conversations with several different people - all in German. It seems that a lot of them fled to Germany during the war. As of right now, I haven't yet found anyone who claims to have been here during the war.
The area around Sarajevo is wooded and hilly. It must have been a bitch to fight in.
The train passed through several towns that you, the reader, won't give a shit as to what the names are. Just insert some random letters if you're curious.
One interesting thing I was told is that they (archaeologists) have apparently discovered pyramids in a town called Visoko. But, I was told, they aren't excavated. I asked 'Did they just find little triangles on the ground and figure they must be connected to bigger pyramids below?' but I think the joke was lost in translation. I'm not sure if I'll get over to see them or not.
While we were riding on the train in Bosnia, a couple of the men in the car pretty much insisted I smoke with them. In the train. Eventually, I did - fearing the wrath of the conductor - but apparently it is legal to smoke pretty much everywhere here.
They also have big piles of hay with weird stick things protruding from it. It's regular enough to be a symbolic thing but I'm not sure what it means.
I had a long conversation with "Yas-Me" who is training to be a dentist. He's still got three years to go or I'd head to his office to have him check out my tooth and see what's up with it. He also thought that taking care of my tooth problem would probably cost about 70 BAM. Nice.
Upon reaching the town, I wandered around till I found an ATM then 'Hostel Enjoy'. This hostel was the closest to the train station. Nobody was home. Apparently, they don't feel the need to man the desk. They were so confident of their business, they didn't eve feel the need to have a sign. It was a name on a buzzer in a big building. What the fuck is that shit? I then got a cab (4 BAM for 2-3 KM - really cheap) over to hostel 'TITO46' This place seemed clean and such and my first night there was enjoyable. Unfortunately, I discovered that you have to register within the first 48 hours of your stay in Sarajevo with the police or you get a fine (no idea how much) when leaving the country. The better hotels and hostels do it for you but TITO46 claims not to know about it. When I went to them and said I had been to the police, they modified their story, saying they'd only be open for a month and were still doing the paperwork. A different hostel I spoke with believes that TITO46 is purposefully ignoring the registration in order to keep the prices down (registration costs a small amount) in order to get more business. Seems like a shitty practice to me. Also, the lockers of most hostels are large enough to store your backpack. Not so at TITO46 - you can fit in some valuables but that's about it. Also, if you can't find the small, unlit light switch in the hallway, navigating up the two flights of irregularly shaped stairs to the hostel can be tricky - really, the flashlight I carry has paid off so many times. They also have only two single person bathrooms - not sure how many guests they can hold. I really can't recommend TITO46 although it is clean - and you are required to remove your shoes when entering. Not my favorite place thus far but I've got three nights there which should allow me time to scope out the town and maybe find a different place to stay.
This is yet another European town that seems to have a lot of shit close after nine or ten PM - I grabbed some shitty (non-chain) fast food and unwound with three rum and cokes (7 BAM each on the 'strip').
I've also noticed that the spike in the middle of the head hairstyle is popular here - that makes me vaguely nervous.
THE LANGUAGE RANT
I accept the fact that if I go off of the 'beaten tourist path' - whether to businesses that don't see a lot of tourists like barbers or if I go to small villages that don't see tourists that I will need to speak some of the local lingo. I'm good with that. However, when I'm in the big tourist area of a town that attracts tourists I often run into people who only speak their native language. Which is not one of the top 30 in the world. And who sometimes look insulted that I haven't taken the time to learn whatever minor language they happen to speak. This is baffling to me. If English (for example) had the popularity of Czech and Italian was the 'international language', my ass would be up late nights trying to learn it as I did with German. More so if I'm working in an area that is trying to get money from tourists. Given the choice, I'd rather devote time to learning Russian than Bosnian (Russian being number eight on the list and Bosnian not making the list). I don't mind learning a couple of polite Bosnian phrases but for time invested, I think Russian would pay off better even though I won't be able to visit Russia until they relax their visa situation.
LANGUAGES LOGAN KNOWS OR KNOWS PIECES OF
Because someone may want to know, here are the languages I currently speak:
English (native)
German (enough to hold a conversation if the other person is patient)
Languages I know some pieces of:
ASL (American sign language), Czech, Dutch, French, Italian, Korean, Mayer (Hungarian) and Spanish (I am from the USA...). It would be a lot more impressive if I had all of these at conversational level.
Of course, I rely on gestures, body language, facial expressions and micro-expressions to help communicate.
BACK TO THE HOSTEL
I met up with Danielle (Australian) and Matt (Welsh) who are traveling together. They had the extreme misfortune to be quartered in the same room as I. They changed the next morning. Tomorrow morning, we're going to go together to the police station to get registered. When I write later, I'll talk about my experience. So far, it's been a nightmare as the police I've spoken to don't speak (or have any interest in doing so) either English or German.
My goal is to live on 60 BAM a day. Don't know if it will happen but we'll see. The hotel room is 20 BAM a night. Ironically, this is (after conversion) exactly the same price I was paying to rent an apartment in Blacksburg, VA.
SHAVE
I managed to find a Turkish barber lady who used the 'razorette' shave style of straight razor. For those who don't know, basically they hook up a new razor blade for each person to keep you from dying of AIDS and still get a great shave.
VARIOUS THINGS
As I usually do when getting to know a place, I wandered off of the beaten path. I found a little out of the way restaurant. Although the waiter claimed to speak English he was much more proficient in German. He also brought me a packet of something that I had to ask what it was. It turned out that it was honey but closer to 'raw' with the consistency of soft butter. It was pretty decent. I had an interesting and unusual breakfast in a place with cloth napkins for 6 BAM. I felt generous and tipped 2 BAM. He seemed very pleased so we were both happy. With the tip, what I spent could have bought a shitty breakfast at McDonald's. Instead, I ate at a swanky place with good food. Cheap food make Logan happy.
They also sell blue, grapefruit flavored Fanta here. I'm not kidding. It's a very strange taste.
I've also seen bullet holes in some of the buildings. As Pete would say, "Interesting."
I also bought some Slovak cigarettes for 2.5 BAM. They are as good (or as bad) as anything else I've smoked. I miss Muriel Sweets.
the city itself is much cleaner than I expected. There is some graffiti and such but they don't seem to have the 'culture of littering' as they do in Prague. I also have yet to see anyone 'making a prayer' when they throw out garbage as I saw Jana and Marianna do in Prague. Which, if you think about it, is strange behavior for Atheists.
Later, for lunch I had something called 'Burek' which may be Turkish. It is some sort of bread stuff around meat or cheese or potatoes. The first two weren't bad but I don't know what sort of horrible shit had been done to those poor potatoes. With a .25 liter of Coke (tiny!) the total cost was 6.5 BAM.
Showing posts with label Budapest. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Budapest. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
Sunday, May 1, 2011
BUDAPEST HELLO = GOODBYE
CHEERS
Saying goodbye to the Cheer's crowd. The big guy next to me in back is named 'Atilla'. I'm not kidding. A big name for a big man I told him...
HUNGARY
I've noticed a couple different types of people that stare at me in the streets. I respond to both types with a bland smile and perhaps saying 'servious'.
One type is very angry darker skinned folks. I've only seen a couple of them. They look very, very angry. I suspect they are the 'gypsies' (Roma) and they don't seem to be doing well financially. I can understand the anger.
The other type is miscellaneous Hungarians. Some smile and nod when I try my shitty Hungarian (Magyar) on them, others find somewhere else to look. I believe they are thinking "How did someone so big get so far from a buffet?"
PRICING
I had decent Turkish food (moussaka) with a soda, a piece of pita bread and the worst two falafels I have ever eaten. The first one was so bad that I had to eat the second. Cost, 1500 HUF.
Later for 190 HUF I tried a coco piece of baklava. I didn't like it.
HUNGARIAN 'FAST FOOD'
Here's how it works - they have big steamer trays of food that is not heated. They call this a 'buffet' - but it isn't - at least not in the American sense. So don't get all worked up. Anyway, after you pick out what you want to eat, they microwave it.
Now, here is the rub: You never get it hot. At best, it is always lukewarm. I am thinking there are several possible reasons:
a) Hungarians think hot food is bad for you, the same way that Germans believe ice is unhealthy. [I thought this was a good reason but Zsolt who works at the hostel told me it isn't true.]
b) The people microwaving the food don't really give a fuck if it's hot or not.
c) They want you to be able to quickly scarf it down and get the fuck out of their establishment as seating is usually limited.
d) They want to get you your food faster so they can actually call it 'fast food'.
HUNGARIAN LAW
Something interesting I found out from Sam (at Cheers) regarding the theft (see last blog):
Up to 20,000 HUF is punishable by a fine. Over 20,000 HUF is jail time and such.
NECESSARY HUNGARIAN VOCABULARY
No = "Nem"
Yes = "Egan"
Bye = "See ya" (informal)
Hi = "Salute" or "See ya" (both informal but formal is way to hard to say)
THE FUTURE
After talking to Chris
about Bosnia, I feel much better about my earlier choice. It sounds like it will be very different - and easy to navigate around in.
We'll take a look at it tomorrow and I'll let you know how it goes then. For now, I am off to party with my Polish friends.
Saying goodbye to the Cheer's crowd. The big guy next to me in back is named 'Atilla'. I'm not kidding. A big name for a big man I told him...
HUNGARY
I've noticed a couple different types of people that stare at me in the streets. I respond to both types with a bland smile and perhaps saying 'servious'.
One type is very angry darker skinned folks. I've only seen a couple of them. They look very, very angry. I suspect they are the 'gypsies' (Roma) and they don't seem to be doing well financially. I can understand the anger.
The other type is miscellaneous Hungarians. Some smile and nod when I try my shitty Hungarian (Magyar) on them, others find somewhere else to look. I believe they are thinking "How did someone so big get so far from a buffet?"
PRICING
I had decent Turkish food (moussaka) with a soda, a piece of pita bread and the worst two falafels I have ever eaten. The first one was so bad that I had to eat the second. Cost, 1500 HUF.
Later for 190 HUF I tried a coco piece of baklava. I didn't like it.
HUNGARIAN 'FAST FOOD'
Here's how it works - they have big steamer trays of food that is not heated. They call this a 'buffet' - but it isn't - at least not in the American sense. So don't get all worked up. Anyway, after you pick out what you want to eat, they microwave it.
Now, here is the rub: You never get it hot. At best, it is always lukewarm. I am thinking there are several possible reasons:
a) Hungarians think hot food is bad for you, the same way that Germans believe ice is unhealthy. [I thought this was a good reason but Zsolt who works at the hostel told me it isn't true.]
b) The people microwaving the food don't really give a fuck if it's hot or not.
c) They want you to be able to quickly scarf it down and get the fuck out of their establishment as seating is usually limited.
d) They want to get you your food faster so they can actually call it 'fast food'.
HUNGARIAN LAW
Something interesting I found out from Sam (at Cheers) regarding the theft (see last blog):
Up to 20,000 HUF is punishable by a fine. Over 20,000 HUF is jail time and such.
NECESSARY HUNGARIAN VOCABULARY
No = "Nem"
Yes = "Egan"
Bye = "See ya" (informal)
Hi = "Salute" or "See ya" (both informal but formal is way to hard to say)
THE FUTURE
After talking to Chris
about Bosnia, I feel much better about my earlier choice. It sounds like it will be very different - and easy to navigate around in. We'll take a look at it tomorrow and I'll let you know how it goes then. For now, I am off to party with my Polish friends.
HOLOCAUST MUSEUM
HOLOCAUST MUSEUM
It was raining some today. After making sure to leave my umbrella buried in my backpack where it can stay nice and dry, I went out. I decided that it should be a museum day. Since today is a Sunday and a holiday (May Day), most things would be closed. Since the Jewish holy day is a Saturday, I figured they might be open.
They were. They open at 10 AM, 1300 HUF.
The Holocaust Museum had everything translated into English. I didn't feel like I was missing out on anything due to the language barrier.
This place had a metal detector and a really perfunctory bag search. I'm betting it gets more stringent if you have a swastika tattooed on your forehead. Or one of the 'spike' European hairstyles.
But I didn't feel that the Holocaust Museum was worth going to.
When I go a museum, I want artifacts. I want to see actual physical stuff. The Holocaust Museum was another one of those 'watch the video and read a shitload of text' museums. Fuck that - make a two hour film. Or, better still watch "The Diary of Anne Frank" or Schindler's List, feel bad and done. You can have more bathroom breaks, more chairs, etc. Pre-internet, yes, I could see a purpose in those sorts of museums. Post-internet? No point.
Also, another interesting thing. To me, which way to go wasn't really obvious. So, I ended up wandering around their back rooms, synagogue etc. I guess they don't get a lot of Americans here or they'd have big arrows on the floor with flashing lights to tell you which way to go next. Maybe a bar of chocolate that pops out of the wall and waggles till you approach it then snaps back in with a door sealing behind you. My god, I have perhaps just invented an American trapping device! I hope no evil people read this blog and implement it! We'd be screwed!
After some lukewarm Chinese food from another working man's place (with drink like 600 HUF) I decided to grab a beer and see if anyone was around at Cheers (only Rita was) then head back to the hostel for awhile. I'm sure it will be extremely irritating to some people who get really excited about Budapest (Christina - I'm looking at you!) will be mad that I'm sitting around the hostel today. Mostly.
POLICE!
In the hostel I am staying in ("Colors") there were a couple Hungarian guys. I remember saying 'Hi' to one who was sitting at the guest computer. I asked what language he spoke and the conversation kind of ground to a halt when he replied shortly 'Hungarian'. So, he and his buddy seemed to work here. They puttered around and then left. The guy who is on the desk shift later came back from dealing with something in the other room and after a bit announced some money was missing from the cash till which it seems he may have left unlocked. Or, the bad guys had a key. I'm not sure. He wasn't worried about me or the other guy from New York who was loitering in the guest area doing it - he believes the Hungarian guys did. He also thought they worked here. He isn't too worried, they have a camera that watches the till area. Zoltan also told me this is his second day on the job. Hell of a way to start! I'm not too worried as I literally haven't left my seat and gone in that direction. The smoking area in in the opposite direction. So, I urge the hotel clerk to call the police. I believe he was intending to anyway but he is a bit hesitant as he hasn't dealt with them before. About an hour later three police show up. They get his statement and bugger off. These cops apparently have to contact detectives and so on. It will take time. To me this is a reminder to be 'constantly vigilant!' and lock your shit up! Hell, even when I was drinking last night with my new Polish friends I kept my shit locked up.
It was raining some today. After making sure to leave my umbrella buried in my backpack where it can stay nice and dry, I went out. I decided that it should be a museum day. Since today is a Sunday and a holiday (May Day), most things would be closed. Since the Jewish holy day is a Saturday, I figured they might be open.
They were. They open at 10 AM, 1300 HUF.
The Holocaust Museum had everything translated into English. I didn't feel like I was missing out on anything due to the language barrier.
This place had a metal detector and a really perfunctory bag search. I'm betting it gets more stringent if you have a swastika tattooed on your forehead. Or one of the 'spike' European hairstyles.
But I didn't feel that the Holocaust Museum was worth going to.
When I go a museum, I want artifacts. I want to see actual physical stuff. The Holocaust Museum was another one of those 'watch the video and read a shitload of text' museums. Fuck that - make a two hour film. Or, better still watch "The Diary of Anne Frank" or Schindler's List, feel bad and done. You can have more bathroom breaks, more chairs, etc. Pre-internet, yes, I could see a purpose in those sorts of museums. Post-internet? No point.
Also, another interesting thing. To me, which way to go wasn't really obvious. So, I ended up wandering around their back rooms, synagogue etc. I guess they don't get a lot of Americans here or they'd have big arrows on the floor with flashing lights to tell you which way to go next. Maybe a bar of chocolate that pops out of the wall and waggles till you approach it then snaps back in with a door sealing behind you. My god, I have perhaps just invented an American trapping device! I hope no evil people read this blog and implement it! We'd be screwed!
After some lukewarm Chinese food from another working man's place (with drink like 600 HUF) I decided to grab a beer and see if anyone was around at Cheers (only Rita was) then head back to the hostel for awhile. I'm sure it will be extremely irritating to some people who get really excited about Budapest (Christina - I'm looking at you!) will be mad that I'm sitting around the hostel today. Mostly.
POLICE!
In the hostel I am staying in ("Colors") there were a couple Hungarian guys. I remember saying 'Hi' to one who was sitting at the guest computer. I asked what language he spoke and the conversation kind of ground to a halt when he replied shortly 'Hungarian'. So, he and his buddy seemed to work here. They puttered around and then left. The guy who is on the desk shift later came back from dealing with something in the other room and after a bit announced some money was missing from the cash till which it seems he may have left unlocked. Or, the bad guys had a key. I'm not sure. He wasn't worried about me or the other guy from New York who was loitering in the guest area doing it - he believes the Hungarian guys did. He also thought they worked here. He isn't too worried, they have a camera that watches the till area. Zoltan also told me this is his second day on the job. Hell of a way to start! I'm not too worried as I literally haven't left my seat and gone in that direction. The smoking area in in the opposite direction. So, I urge the hotel clerk to call the police. I believe he was intending to anyway but he is a bit hesitant as he hasn't dealt with them before. About an hour later three police show up. They get his statement and bugger off. These cops apparently have to contact detectives and so on. It will take time. To me this is a reminder to be 'constantly vigilant!' and lock your shit up! Hell, even when I was drinking last night with my new Polish friends I kept my shit locked up.
Saturday, April 30, 2011
PUB CULTURE
BICYCLE PROTEST
Today, in Budapest, they were having a bicycle protest. Everyone, it seemed, was out riding their bikes to show how many of them there were. It was a shitload of bikes but really nothing compared to Amsterdam. Automobiles were stopped or diverted. I presume they were going for 'equal rights'. Usually, bikes lose to cars. According to one bicyclist I spoke to, it had reached 'critical mass'. Do I think it will really help? No - but it was interesting to see.
POSH RESTAURANT
At the repeated urging of the staff of the hostel "Colors" I went to a posh (but not too expensive) restaurant called 'Bor la Bor' to try some traditional Hungarian food. I got table bread and the tap water I requested. Both were free. I'd like to note that you never get butter with the bread. I don't ask for it because I'd rather have the gut shrink than grow. Also, you can play 'spot the American' by watching who is trying to explain to the staff that ice goes in water. I don't play this game - I can drink lukewarm water and not care. I'm also curious as to whether food sent back comes out of the waiters paycheck as it does in the Czech Republic but the waiter I had didn't really have enough of a grasp of English to go that far off of the 'I want to order food topic' to deal with that.
This is the kind of restaurant that has cloth napkins. The food arrangement was very well done. The dish was "Venison stew with a touch of red wine with Hungarian potato dumplings". I had an Irish Coffee for desert which they used Jameson's to make. Posh.
Main course, 2390 HUF; Irish Coffee, 690 HUF. Total cost 3080 HUF (AKA $17 - the price of a small or medium pizza with delivery, tip, etc).
ORGAN CONCERT
I decided to go to a (free) organ and choir concert. I did it partially because I am curious and partially to annoy some of my readers who artistic types. They will say things like "Logan (the heathen) went to a classical music concert in Budapest? But he has no real appreciation of the arts! I should have been the one to go!" And they would be right. It's especially funny because I'm looking pretty rough (scruffy) - like I just got done with a two week NERO event. I was sitting between two older gentlemen, both of whom were wearing suits. I was dressed in Czech sweats and a T-shirt with English and I believe Polish writing. Rough.
Before going, I had fortified myself with three glasses of Hungarian wine. Happy days.
The church itself was quite old, but I'm not sure from when. I don't know what your opinion is on churches but I will say that this one gave some nice acoustics.
It was organ and a shitload of people in a choir - the most I'd ever seen. I'm not sure how many. I had originally guessed a hundred but the program I got (also free!) said double that. Lot of fucking singers. I think they may have been famous as the program said they had done a lot of work for the BBC and such, but meh. They did a bunch of music by a guy name Liszt. To quote the great American philosopher Homer J Simpson, "If he's so smart, how come he's dead?"
High culture + Logan = ????
I did (to a certain point when my ass started to hurt) actually enjoy the concert. The brain can only absorb what the ass can endure. "Over the years my ass has taken a pounding." - Me, Myself and Irene.
I was disappointed they didn't play a piece by Bach I like, but I'm guessing the organist has heard that as often as a guitar shop owner has heard the opening chords of "Stairway to Heaven". So, I didn't start yelling for it in the middle of the concert. Chalk one up for culture...
After about two hours, I got burned out on culture and as they continued playing I wandered off. Culture is best in small doses. Or the booze wore off. I'm not sure. I just knew if I had been forced to sit through more I'd have stood up and demanded everyone bow to lord Satan or something. Best to take off early. [Disclaimer for those for whom English not their first language - I have no interest in Satan.]
HUNGARIAN MONEY
I don't recommend carrying anything larger than a 5000 HUF bill - they will have trouble breaking it. 2000 and 5000 are usually OK - anything smaller is definitely OK.
CHEERS
In the bar Cheers, I met up with Sam Olawuyi, a Nigerian gynecologist. We got talking about Africa and he told me something interesting. He felt that the problem was that a lot of people left Africa to go get educated in 'foreign parts'. They came back and their 'new ideas' were not really appreciated by the natives. Also, the culture there is to help support the family. And they have really big families. There is an African saying that if you have one rich man and seven poor men, you have eight poor men. The problem then comes in that the educated man feels strapped for cash and turns to corrupt means to get it. And that is what causes 'asshole-ism'. Which is what brings about dictators, which Africa seems to have in abundance.
The bar Cheers is very good to me. After the concert, I went back to see if I could talk to more people. I did. There is a great diversity of people there from doctors to laborers - and they are all old friends.
Apparently, 55 years ago, Elvis did something good for Hungary. I'm not clear on what, but the bar was celebrating him. I made the mistake if they wanted to play one Elvis song to honor it and they played them until I retreated.
And I tried out a shot of Unicum - it is Hungarian for 'firewater that has herbs in it therefore must be good for you while it kicks in your teeth'. Buy a bottle of it if you'd like a slow, painful suicide. I hit the escape button when locals started wanting to buy me shots of this. Shot of Unicum (yes, it sounds very interesting in Engish) 600 HUF.
After walking out of the bar, I wandered back to the hostel and...ran into the poles drinking in our room. And guess who they wanted to help them drink shots of vodka? There was one French lady and five poles. Severine (French) and Yedrek (the only male), Izabela, Joanna, Mafda and Aleksandra. After putting away a couple of small bottles, several of them went clubbing and I typed up this blog for YOU! Hope you like it.
OTHER PRICES
Inexpensive Hungarian wine - 300 HUF. The 'good shit', triple cost.
Pack of smokes, around 500 HUF.
RAMBLINGS
I'm not sure how common Kahlua is here; they didn't have it in a liquor store I visited. Sad.
I wish to reiterate, get a map before you get to Budapest and study it. This is not at all an easy city to get around in without one.
Steer clear of Hungarian cigarettes. They are pretty foul. Most Hungarians seem to despise them, with at least one exception. The price is also darned close to American cigarettes.
I don't know if tipping is customary in Hungary. I haven't been basically because I am poor as shit. That being said, the waiters and such of restaurants that I repeatedly visit always seem happy to see me. It could be because I treat them like people.
Today, in Budapest, they were having a bicycle protest. Everyone, it seemed, was out riding their bikes to show how many of them there were. It was a shitload of bikes but really nothing compared to Amsterdam. Automobiles were stopped or diverted. I presume they were going for 'equal rights'. Usually, bikes lose to cars. According to one bicyclist I spoke to, it had reached 'critical mass'. Do I think it will really help? No - but it was interesting to see.
POSH RESTAURANT
At the repeated urging of the staff of the hostel "Colors" I went to a posh (but not too expensive) restaurant called 'Bor la Bor' to try some traditional Hungarian food. I got table bread and the tap water I requested. Both were free. I'd like to note that you never get butter with the bread. I don't ask for it because I'd rather have the gut shrink than grow. Also, you can play 'spot the American' by watching who is trying to explain to the staff that ice goes in water. I don't play this game - I can drink lukewarm water and not care. I'm also curious as to whether food sent back comes out of the waiters paycheck as it does in the Czech Republic but the waiter I had didn't really have enough of a grasp of English to go that far off of the 'I want to order food topic' to deal with that.
This is the kind of restaurant that has cloth napkins. The food arrangement was very well done. The dish was "Venison stew with a touch of red wine with Hungarian potato dumplings". I had an Irish Coffee for desert which they used Jameson's to make. Posh.
Main course, 2390 HUF; Irish Coffee, 690 HUF. Total cost 3080 HUF (AKA $17 - the price of a small or medium pizza with delivery, tip, etc).
ORGAN CONCERT
I decided to go to a (free) organ and choir concert. I did it partially because I am curious and partially to annoy some of my readers who artistic types. They will say things like "Logan (the heathen) went to a classical music concert in Budapest? But he has no real appreciation of the arts! I should have been the one to go!" And they would be right. It's especially funny because I'm looking pretty rough (scruffy) - like I just got done with a two week NERO event. I was sitting between two older gentlemen, both of whom were wearing suits. I was dressed in Czech sweats and a T-shirt with English and I believe Polish writing. Rough.
Before going, I had fortified myself with three glasses of Hungarian wine. Happy days.
The church itself was quite old, but I'm not sure from when. I don't know what your opinion is on churches but I will say that this one gave some nice acoustics.
It was organ and a shitload of people in a choir - the most I'd ever seen. I'm not sure how many. I had originally guessed a hundred but the program I got (also free!) said double that. Lot of fucking singers. I think they may have been famous as the program said they had done a lot of work for the BBC and such, but meh. They did a bunch of music by a guy name Liszt. To quote the great American philosopher Homer J Simpson, "If he's so smart, how come he's dead?"
High culture + Logan = ????
I did (to a certain point when my ass started to hurt) actually enjoy the concert. The brain can only absorb what the ass can endure. "Over the years my ass has taken a pounding." - Me, Myself and Irene.
I was disappointed they didn't play a piece by Bach I like, but I'm guessing the organist has heard that as often as a guitar shop owner has heard the opening chords of "Stairway to Heaven". So, I didn't start yelling for it in the middle of the concert. Chalk one up for culture...
After about two hours, I got burned out on culture and as they continued playing I wandered off. Culture is best in small doses. Or the booze wore off. I'm not sure. I just knew if I had been forced to sit through more I'd have stood up and demanded everyone bow to lord Satan or something. Best to take off early. [Disclaimer for those for whom English not their first language - I have no interest in Satan.]
HUNGARIAN MONEY
I don't recommend carrying anything larger than a 5000 HUF bill - they will have trouble breaking it. 2000 and 5000 are usually OK - anything smaller is definitely OK.
CHEERS
In the bar Cheers, I met up with Sam Olawuyi, a Nigerian gynecologist. We got talking about Africa and he told me something interesting. He felt that the problem was that a lot of people left Africa to go get educated in 'foreign parts'. They came back and their 'new ideas' were not really appreciated by the natives. Also, the culture there is to help support the family. And they have really big families. There is an African saying that if you have one rich man and seven poor men, you have eight poor men. The problem then comes in that the educated man feels strapped for cash and turns to corrupt means to get it. And that is what causes 'asshole-ism'. Which is what brings about dictators, which Africa seems to have in abundance.
The bar Cheers is very good to me. After the concert, I went back to see if I could talk to more people. I did. There is a great diversity of people there from doctors to laborers - and they are all old friends.
Apparently, 55 years ago, Elvis did something good for Hungary. I'm not clear on what, but the bar was celebrating him. I made the mistake if they wanted to play one Elvis song to honor it and they played them until I retreated.
And I tried out a shot of Unicum - it is Hungarian for 'firewater that has herbs in it therefore must be good for you while it kicks in your teeth'. Buy a bottle of it if you'd like a slow, painful suicide. I hit the escape button when locals started wanting to buy me shots of this. Shot of Unicum (yes, it sounds very interesting in Engish) 600 HUF.
After walking out of the bar, I wandered back to the hostel and...ran into the poles drinking in our room. And guess who they wanted to help them drink shots of vodka? There was one French lady and five poles. Severine (French) and Yedrek (the only male), Izabela, Joanna, Mafda and Aleksandra. After putting away a couple of small bottles, several of them went clubbing and I typed up this blog for YOU! Hope you like it.
OTHER PRICES
Inexpensive Hungarian wine - 300 HUF. The 'good shit', triple cost.
Pack of smokes, around 500 HUF.
RAMBLINGS
I'm not sure how common Kahlua is here; they didn't have it in a liquor store I visited. Sad.
I wish to reiterate, get a map before you get to Budapest and study it. This is not at all an easy city to get around in without one.
Steer clear of Hungarian cigarettes. They are pretty foul. Most Hungarians seem to despise them, with at least one exception. The price is also darned close to American cigarettes.
I don't know if tipping is customary in Hungary. I haven't been basically because I am poor as shit. That being said, the waiters and such of restaurants that I repeatedly visit always seem happy to see me. It could be because I treat them like people.
TERROR!
THE TERROR MUSEUM
I was advised to see the Terror Museum. It opens at 10 AM (sharp) TUE-SUN. To get in is 1800 HUF, no photos. For the audio thing it's an extra (I believe) 1300 HUF. I didn't get the audio thing because a) I am a cheap bastard - still trying to rebuild my money after the last trip and b) I typically don't like the long speeches. I'd much rather have a native just give me the Cliff notes, if you know what I mean.
My thoughts on the Terror Museum. Well, it was obvious that they put a lot of work into this thing but I felt like I was looking without really seeing. I think I got the gist but the subtleties escaped me. Doubtless, if I was fluent in Magyar (Hungarian) or had sucked it up and got the audio thing I'd have gotten more out of it. Although Budapest plays host to tourists from all over the world whose common language is English, only about a third or so of the signs were in English as well.
There were a lot of exhibits I just didn't understand. For example, there was an old style car surrounded by black drapes. Tense violin music played. The room lights would dim while the lights on the car would increase. Then, the lighting would go back to what it was previously. I have no idea what the fuck that was all about. My only thought was 'perhaps this is the car that came to pick up people and whisk them away?' If so, I'd have been more interested to see inside of a vintage car. There was also a pig made out of plaster or paper mache standing by itself with a sign (only) in Hungarian. I have no clue what that was. Given it's location in the former 'secret police headquarters' where they slaughtered and tortured assloads of people, I figured it must be an evil fucking pig.
They also had a video of a trial for a guy and his cronies who had attempted to overthrow the communists. Their biggest crime - as I see it - was failing.
I also got to ride down the same exact elevator that Michael Palin had ridden down and watched the video in. That was kind of cool though I do remember that he had sprung for the audio guide. That's what having the big BBC budget can do for you.
The basement was a bit moving as it served a grim reminder to what dicks people can be to each other.
COSTS
Lukewarm Chinese food at a Hungarian 'working man's' eating place with a lemon flavored Fanta, about 900 HUF.
TURKS AND POLES
I met a group of four Turkish nursing students as well as two folks from Poland. I think that they have more people in their group but I'm not sure. I gave folks my card and said that if they enjoyed my blog to let me know when I get near the country. I'd love to go visit them, stay with them and chat with them. Good stuff. All of them seemed really nice and I think it would be fun to learn about their countries through their eyes.
I did get two of the Turkish guys names - Honour and Serdar (pronounced "Sar-Dar"). I hope I get to meet them again when I eventually reach Turkey.
I was advised to see the Terror Museum. It opens at 10 AM (sharp) TUE-SUN. To get in is 1800 HUF, no photos. For the audio thing it's an extra (I believe) 1300 HUF. I didn't get the audio thing because a) I am a cheap bastard - still trying to rebuild my money after the last trip and b) I typically don't like the long speeches. I'd much rather have a native just give me the Cliff notes, if you know what I mean.
My thoughts on the Terror Museum. Well, it was obvious that they put a lot of work into this thing but I felt like I was looking without really seeing. I think I got the gist but the subtleties escaped me. Doubtless, if I was fluent in Magyar (Hungarian) or had sucked it up and got the audio thing I'd have gotten more out of it. Although Budapest plays host to tourists from all over the world whose common language is English, only about a third or so of the signs were in English as well.
There were a lot of exhibits I just didn't understand. For example, there was an old style car surrounded by black drapes. Tense violin music played. The room lights would dim while the lights on the car would increase. Then, the lighting would go back to what it was previously. I have no idea what the fuck that was all about. My only thought was 'perhaps this is the car that came to pick up people and whisk them away?' If so, I'd have been more interested to see inside of a vintage car. There was also a pig made out of plaster or paper mache standing by itself with a sign (only) in Hungarian. I have no clue what that was. Given it's location in the former 'secret police headquarters' where they slaughtered and tortured assloads of people, I figured it must be an evil fucking pig.
They also had a video of a trial for a guy and his cronies who had attempted to overthrow the communists. Their biggest crime - as I see it - was failing.
I also got to ride down the same exact elevator that Michael Palin had ridden down and watched the video in. That was kind of cool though I do remember that he had sprung for the audio guide. That's what having the big BBC budget can do for you.
The basement was a bit moving as it served a grim reminder to what dicks people can be to each other.
COSTS
Lukewarm Chinese food at a Hungarian 'working man's' eating place with a lemon flavored Fanta, about 900 HUF.
TURKS AND POLES
I met a group of four Turkish nursing students as well as two folks from Poland. I think that they have more people in their group but I'm not sure. I gave folks my card and said that if they enjoyed my blog to let me know when I get near the country. I'd love to go visit them, stay with them and chat with them. Good stuff. All of them seemed really nice and I think it would be fun to learn about their countries through their eyes.
I did get two of the Turkish guys names - Honour and Serdar (pronounced "Sar-Dar"). I hope I get to meet them again when I eventually reach Turkey.
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Budapest
SETTING
As I sit here typing this, 4-6 (it fluxuates) rowdy German girls are having a chat behind me at the next table. [And yes, Travis, they are...] I had a French girl eating across from me and a British guy has just waved good bye as he heads out to hunt women.
GENERAL PLAN
I've got to admit that I was getting frustrated enough with the crazy directions I was getting and the pack - mainly the pack that I almost threw in the towel and went on to Croatia. But I think Budapest has enough to offer that I really want to check it out.
I would like to point out though that the frustration was all my fault. (I can see Pete nodding). But this just the sort of trial and painful error that will help me get better at this traveling. Plus, I'm sure any doctors reading are thinking about how wonderful the walk was for my health. The bastards.
On couch surfing - thus far, the only people I've heard back from quickly have been the folks who were full already or currently overseas or otherwise indisposed. They were all nice about it and I'm disappointed not to have met them. But I remain hopeful!
I'm going to keep working at the couch surfing thing for a bit because I know that meeting the local folks is what will make this trip special and interesting for me. It won't be the architecture - I've seen so much through Europe that a lot of it is starting to (mentally) bounce. It won't be the museums or the art - if I have to go through any of those soon I might have a screaming fit. It will be the people.
Today I'd guess I sent out about 50+ couch surfing requests. The only response I've gotten from less than half is summed up as 'sorry'.
My loose plan right now is that they have some bloody big long lake to the SE of Budapest that I've been told is picturesque. Plus, it kind of points right at Croatia. I'm wanting to slowly work my way toward Croatia - preferably staying with the locals via couch surfing if I can make that work - and try to get a feel for Hungary.
After a few days in Croatia I'd like to head to what will hopefully be cheaper in Serbia, Bosnia, etc.
Update: Monday I head to Sarajevo. I've heard from talking to other travelers that Bosnia and Serbia are much cheaper. We'll see if that's true.
TRAVELER'S TIP
I'm pretty sure it is obvious - sounds obvious - but is often overlooked. Eat where the locals do. Price, food quality, etc all tend to be better.
COSTS
Mediocre goulash (not soup) for one - 1375 HUF (about $7.63).
The place I'm staying ("Colors") 3100 HUF, laundry 1500 HUF.
I was eating at a fairly trendy restaurant called 'papirtigers' eating a 'lunch box' that cost 1740 HUF. It's a bit upscale and trendy for me but it smelled good and been several hours since I've last eaten. I'd gotten directions to a 'traditional Hungarian restaurant' but it was about twice the cost of this place. As an interesting side note I found out apartment rent is 2000 HUF per day. [Logan note: Corrected, thanks Reka!] Egad! In talking to a nice Hungarian lady (Rika) who works at the hostel she told me about a place that I can get some cheaper food from without cooking. I'll let you know how that works out tomorrow.
Take out traditional Hungarian food - a big flat piece of pork, breaded - very tasty, around 1500 HUF.
Imported Weiss Beer (a Logan thing) 835 HUF. [I drink this because it reminds me of 'the old days'. Before Jana was born. Que Jana's eye roll - and done. Thank you Jana!]
Locally brewed beer, small size - 250 HUF, big size I think 350 HUF.
Heaping plate of cheap Chinese food, 600 HUF. A Coke to go with it, 280 HUF.
200 business cards, with layout, cutting etc - 2730 HUF.
HUNGARIAN SERVICE
I have never been refused tap water here. [I've been running an experiment on it as well as trying to get the local 'good bacteria' into my system to build up my immunities.]
I think the worst service I've gotten in this country so far was 'mildly indifferent' and it ranges all the way up to wonderful. This may cause many Czechs (who are use to the notorious 'Czech service' I have previously written about) to go into culture shock.
I like the restaurants here thus far. I am concerned that Czechs who come here may suffer culture shock.
HUNGARIANS
Well, I've seen some very attractive women but many (who could be foreigners - I have no idea) who appear to like McDonald's. I swear, fast food is a bane on the battle against the bulge. Among the people I looked at, the 'muffin top' seemed to be in style. Again, I'm not sure if it was locals or not but they don't have a 'Czech stair master' here.
Once I get through the "I live in a big city and don't talk to other people' (which seems universal) I've found the Hungarians to be very pleasant people.
MORE RANDOM JABBERINGS
Cost saving measure - I've discovered the hostel I'm currently in offers a free breakfast. Mostly stale toast and very odd cereal. I'm working on stuffing myself with that to avoid the first meal out on the town. I've been working on achieving some sort of balance with my funds so that I can stay here and check out the town a bit more. I'm not sure if it will be possible or a slow leak of money. Everyone keeps telling me that Thailand is very cheap but I'm really wanting to check out Central and Eastern Europe for awhile.
I was sitting in a restaurant listening to an older Brazilian couple discuss their (end of life) vacation with the waiter. They seemed to be sprinting between the major cities of Europe before their money ran out. They were trying to make some sort of 'once in a lifetime' memory. I feel extremely lucky to be able to do what I'm doing. I just need to get to a cheap enough place that I can start saving some money.
Seriously, if you want to lose weight, get your fat ass to Europe.
In the USA, doors open outward so that in the event of a fire (or bomb) the panicked masses will be able to easily flee into the street where they can be shot by panicked bystanders. In many of the countries in Europe, this is not the case because the door would smack someone walking by on the sidewalk if it were opened quickly. [In some other parts of the world, the door does open outward and does sometimes get torn off by a passing car.]
I went to a restaurant and tried out the stuffed cabbage. [Traditional tourists seem to eat at McDonald's. Pussies.] They have some sort of 'paprika bread' [alfoldi pogacsa] on the tables that absolutely rocks. The stuffed cabbage was that plus a sausage and something I didn't identify as bacon until I bit into it. Then I knew. I've never seen a piece of 'bacon' as thick as a (thin) steak before. I was completely full and couldn't finish the food. 2650 HUF.
If you want to start a fight with three or more people from Budapest, approach their group and politely ask for directions to something that can't be pointed at. They will fight with each other (you can call it an 'extremely lively discussion') over the route you should take.
You never see the guys in travel shows buying tickets because it is boring, tedious and doesn't make good TV.
The Eastern train station (they have three) has a guy in the 'tourist information booth. He was fluent in English and I believe he could help you with hostel information and such. Where was he on my first day here?? I'm also unsure of his hours so if you get here, try to arrive close to 'normal working hours'.
CAVE CHURCH (that's in English - speak Hungarian for the right name)
I went to a 'cave church' thing I found across the 'green bridge' (chain bridge) - it was interesting time. It was 500 HUF to get in there and that price also gives you a pretty slick audio guide thing. Find a number on the wall, type it in and you get talked to about what you're seeing. I think there were twenty or thirty entries. I listened to one as I wandered around the church. The church wasn't all that big. When I came back to the check in/check out place, the guy who had checked me in blinked and said "You're kidding." I responded that it wasn't a very big church, I just wanted a quick walk through and I honestly found the people to be more interesting. He nodded and said cryptically "You know."
CAST OF CHARACTERS
Andrew Budai:
I met a tour guide who is fluent in English, German and Japanese. He said that you have to have one of the 'rare' languages in order to get a job as a tour guide - like Japanese.
I bought him a beer and we talked of many things. Logan's comments are in []. He said that:
Drinking in public is legal. [This doesn't seem to be unusual for Europe, just Puritan America.]
Hungarians are very mixed, having roots in Germans, Turks, Mongols, etc.
The third largest synagogue is here in Budapest, due to Hungary being very liberal until the first world war. The largest is in the UK, second largest in France. Also, before WW1, Hungary was huge.
It was interesting when I asked hi what the biggest problem facing Budapest is - he said smoking. The government is working on passing a bill to outlaw it in taverns. The tavern keepers don't like this at all as they feel it will drive off their business.
I asked him if there were any problems with the Roma (Gypsies). He said the biggest problem there was education. The Roma don't have any. They live a very segregated life and because their folks aren't educated, they don't have their own doctors, lawyers, etc. When the Roma were admitted to the university for free (under Communism), only a small percentage of them actually completed it. Also, during the communist time, they would hire three times as many people as were needed to complete a project (example, building a road) hence everyone (including the Roma) had jobs. After communism, most of the Roma are unemployed. The Roma also have huge families. If they can't support them, the Roma [I am told] turn to crime. The local opinion is that 80% of all criminal activities are committed by the 10% of the population that is Roma. There is no official figure on this as 'racial profiling' is illegal. There is a huge amount of tension between the Roma and locals in smaller villages. Apparently, the locals don't feel the police are doing anything to protect them so they hire local security guards who make a strong 'police presence' within the villages. This causes tensions to further ramp up. He also told me that villagers would plant gardens and by the time harvest came, the plants would be picked clean. He related a story that someone had put up an electrified fence and apparently it killed a couple of Roma kids. More tension. And another story that some guy was urinating in the street toward the Roma and yelling bad things at them. There were many of the Roma and only one guy so the pisser was nearly beaten to death. [What kind of idiot yells things like that to people who wildly outnumber him? Either way, it sounds like a big problem Logan is glad he doesn't have to figure out a clever solution to.]
Chris - a soft spoken English guy (from Brighton) I've had the pleasure to speak to a couple times. He has journeyed in the Croatia (and other stuff around there) area and warned me that Croatia - being a big vacation spot - isn't really cheaper than where I'm at now. He may also be a master chef! He tells me that if you eat enough meet, you get the 'meat sweats'. It may take a bit. This sounds horrifying but I can see people doing that.
Shinae and Jihong
Two Korean girls, co-workers, who are traveling around together. They both work with kids in Slovakia. They had been to Venice and felt that it was all tourists, no natives. They went from the fast paced life of Korea to the slower Slovak lifestyle and are still making that adjustment. They're going to stay in Slovakia for a year or two then head back to Korea. They seemed like a lot of fun but sadly, I met them on their last day here. Perhaps I will run into them in the future?
CHEERS BAR
Where after just a couple days, everyone knows my name.
Vera, Gabor and Mayer.
Mayer Aliz is a scientist who I had asked about 'what is the best thing about living in Budapest? She told me that the opportunities to study, work, get culture and such.
We also talked about the subway cars I had seen earlier. She confirmed that they were indeed made in the communist time and that they belong in a museum. She mentioned that just last week one of them either lit on fire or burst into flame.
She also gave me the quote "The heart of Budapest is in the river."
She also recommended to travelers to buy a three day card instead of three one day cards for the metro and such. It is cheaper.
While we were chatting, I asked her what kind of person I was. She said - and I quote - "You are a little strange."
I enjoyed meeting her, Vera (who is the Big Boss of the place!) and Gabor (who is a scientist who studies birds).
I keep on meeting interesting people in there and having good chats, so I keep going back.
THE SEVEN MIRACLES OF COMMUNISM
1. Everyone has a job.
2. Even if everyone has a job, nobody is doing anything.
3. Even if nobody is doing anything, the plan is to do more than 100%.
4. Even if the plan was to do more than 100, there is nothing at the stores.
5. Even if there wasn't anything at the stores, everyone has everything.
6. Even if people have everything, people steal.
7. Even if everyone is stealing, nothing is lacking.
[From a sign in Hungarian, translated into English by Mayer.]
As I sit here typing this, 4-6 (it fluxuates) rowdy German girls are having a chat behind me at the next table. [And yes, Travis, they are...] I had a French girl eating across from me and a British guy has just waved good bye as he heads out to hunt women.
GENERAL PLAN
I've got to admit that I was getting frustrated enough with the crazy directions I was getting and the pack - mainly the pack that I almost threw in the towel and went on to Croatia. But I think Budapest has enough to offer that I really want to check it out.
I would like to point out though that the frustration was all my fault. (I can see Pete nodding). But this just the sort of trial and painful error that will help me get better at this traveling. Plus, I'm sure any doctors reading are thinking about how wonderful the walk was for my health. The bastards.
On couch surfing - thus far, the only people I've heard back from quickly have been the folks who were full already or currently overseas or otherwise indisposed. They were all nice about it and I'm disappointed not to have met them. But I remain hopeful!
I'm going to keep working at the couch surfing thing for a bit because I know that meeting the local folks is what will make this trip special and interesting for me. It won't be the architecture - I've seen so much through Europe that a lot of it is starting to (mentally) bounce. It won't be the museums or the art - if I have to go through any of those soon I might have a screaming fit. It will be the people.
Today I'd guess I sent out about 50+ couch surfing requests. The only response I've gotten from less than half is summed up as 'sorry'.
My loose plan right now is that they have some bloody big long lake to the SE of Budapest that I've been told is picturesque. Plus, it kind of points right at Croatia. I'm wanting to slowly work my way toward Croatia - preferably staying with the locals via couch surfing if I can make that work - and try to get a feel for Hungary.
After a few days in Croatia I'd like to head to what will hopefully be cheaper in Serbia, Bosnia, etc.
Update: Monday I head to Sarajevo. I've heard from talking to other travelers that Bosnia and Serbia are much cheaper. We'll see if that's true.
TRAVELER'S TIP
I'm pretty sure it is obvious - sounds obvious - but is often overlooked. Eat where the locals do. Price, food quality, etc all tend to be better.
COSTS
Mediocre goulash (not soup) for one - 1375 HUF (about $7.63).
The place I'm staying ("Colors") 3100 HUF, laundry 1500 HUF.
I was eating at a fairly trendy restaurant called 'papirtigers' eating a 'lunch box' that cost 1740 HUF. It's a bit upscale and trendy for me but it smelled good and been several hours since I've last eaten. I'd gotten directions to a 'traditional Hungarian restaurant' but it was about twice the cost of this place. As an interesting side note I found out apartment rent is 2000 HUF per day. [Logan note: Corrected, thanks Reka!] Egad! In talking to a nice Hungarian lady (Rika) who works at the hostel she told me about a place that I can get some cheaper food from without cooking. I'll let you know how that works out tomorrow.
Take out traditional Hungarian food - a big flat piece of pork, breaded - very tasty, around 1500 HUF.
Imported Weiss Beer (a Logan thing) 835 HUF. [I drink this because it reminds me of 'the old days'. Before Jana was born. Que Jana's eye roll - and done. Thank you Jana!]
Locally brewed beer, small size - 250 HUF, big size I think 350 HUF.
Heaping plate of cheap Chinese food, 600 HUF. A Coke to go with it, 280 HUF.
200 business cards, with layout, cutting etc - 2730 HUF.
HUNGARIAN SERVICE
I have never been refused tap water here. [I've been running an experiment on it as well as trying to get the local 'good bacteria' into my system to build up my immunities.]
I think the worst service I've gotten in this country so far was 'mildly indifferent' and it ranges all the way up to wonderful. This may cause many Czechs (who are use to the notorious 'Czech service' I have previously written about) to go into culture shock.
I like the restaurants here thus far. I am concerned that Czechs who come here may suffer culture shock.
HUNGARIANS
Well, I've seen some very attractive women but many (who could be foreigners - I have no idea) who appear to like McDonald's. I swear, fast food is a bane on the battle against the bulge. Among the people I looked at, the 'muffin top' seemed to be in style. Again, I'm not sure if it was locals or not but they don't have a 'Czech stair master' here.
Once I get through the "I live in a big city and don't talk to other people' (which seems universal) I've found the Hungarians to be very pleasant people.
MORE RANDOM JABBERINGS
Cost saving measure - I've discovered the hostel I'm currently in offers a free breakfast. Mostly stale toast and very odd cereal. I'm working on stuffing myself with that to avoid the first meal out on the town. I've been working on achieving some sort of balance with my funds so that I can stay here and check out the town a bit more. I'm not sure if it will be possible or a slow leak of money. Everyone keeps telling me that Thailand is very cheap but I'm really wanting to check out Central and Eastern Europe for awhile.
I was sitting in a restaurant listening to an older Brazilian couple discuss their (end of life) vacation with the waiter. They seemed to be sprinting between the major cities of Europe before their money ran out. They were trying to make some sort of 'once in a lifetime' memory. I feel extremely lucky to be able to do what I'm doing. I just need to get to a cheap enough place that I can start saving some money.
Seriously, if you want to lose weight, get your fat ass to Europe.
In the USA, doors open outward so that in the event of a fire (or bomb) the panicked masses will be able to easily flee into the street where they can be shot by panicked bystanders. In many of the countries in Europe, this is not the case because the door would smack someone walking by on the sidewalk if it were opened quickly. [In some other parts of the world, the door does open outward and does sometimes get torn off by a passing car.]
I went to a restaurant and tried out the stuffed cabbage. [Traditional tourists seem to eat at McDonald's. Pussies.] They have some sort of 'paprika bread' [alfoldi pogacsa] on the tables that absolutely rocks. The stuffed cabbage was that plus a sausage and something I didn't identify as bacon until I bit into it. Then I knew. I've never seen a piece of 'bacon' as thick as a (thin) steak before. I was completely full and couldn't finish the food. 2650 HUF.
If you want to start a fight with three or more people from Budapest, approach their group and politely ask for directions to something that can't be pointed at. They will fight with each other (you can call it an 'extremely lively discussion') over the route you should take.
You never see the guys in travel shows buying tickets because it is boring, tedious and doesn't make good TV.
The Eastern train station (they have three) has a guy in the 'tourist information booth. He was fluent in English and I believe he could help you with hostel information and such. Where was he on my first day here?? I'm also unsure of his hours so if you get here, try to arrive close to 'normal working hours'.
CAVE CHURCH (that's in English - speak Hungarian for the right name)
I went to a 'cave church' thing I found across the 'green bridge' (chain bridge) - it was interesting time. It was 500 HUF to get in there and that price also gives you a pretty slick audio guide thing. Find a number on the wall, type it in and you get talked to about what you're seeing. I think there were twenty or thirty entries. I listened to one as I wandered around the church. The church wasn't all that big. When I came back to the check in/check out place, the guy who had checked me in blinked and said "You're kidding." I responded that it wasn't a very big church, I just wanted a quick walk through and I honestly found the people to be more interesting. He nodded and said cryptically "You know."
CAST OF CHARACTERS
Andrew Budai:
I met a tour guide who is fluent in English, German and Japanese. He said that you have to have one of the 'rare' languages in order to get a job as a tour guide - like Japanese.
I bought him a beer and we talked of many things. Logan's comments are in []. He said that:
Drinking in public is legal. [This doesn't seem to be unusual for Europe, just Puritan America.]
Hungarians are very mixed, having roots in Germans, Turks, Mongols, etc.
The third largest synagogue is here in Budapest, due to Hungary being very liberal until the first world war. The largest is in the UK, second largest in France. Also, before WW1, Hungary was huge.
It was interesting when I asked hi what the biggest problem facing Budapest is - he said smoking. The government is working on passing a bill to outlaw it in taverns. The tavern keepers don't like this at all as they feel it will drive off their business.
I asked him if there were any problems with the Roma (Gypsies). He said the biggest problem there was education. The Roma don't have any. They live a very segregated life and because their folks aren't educated, they don't have their own doctors, lawyers, etc. When the Roma were admitted to the university for free (under Communism), only a small percentage of them actually completed it. Also, during the communist time, they would hire three times as many people as were needed to complete a project (example, building a road) hence everyone (including the Roma) had jobs. After communism, most of the Roma are unemployed. The Roma also have huge families. If they can't support them, the Roma [I am told] turn to crime. The local opinion is that 80% of all criminal activities are committed by the 10% of the population that is Roma. There is no official figure on this as 'racial profiling' is illegal. There is a huge amount of tension between the Roma and locals in smaller villages. Apparently, the locals don't feel the police are doing anything to protect them so they hire local security guards who make a strong 'police presence' within the villages. This causes tensions to further ramp up. He also told me that villagers would plant gardens and by the time harvest came, the plants would be picked clean. He related a story that someone had put up an electrified fence and apparently it killed a couple of Roma kids. More tension. And another story that some guy was urinating in the street toward the Roma and yelling bad things at them. There were many of the Roma and only one guy so the pisser was nearly beaten to death. [What kind of idiot yells things like that to people who wildly outnumber him? Either way, it sounds like a big problem Logan is glad he doesn't have to figure out a clever solution to.]
Chris - a soft spoken English guy (from Brighton) I've had the pleasure to speak to a couple times. He has journeyed in the Croatia (and other stuff around there) area and warned me that Croatia - being a big vacation spot - isn't really cheaper than where I'm at now. He may also be a master chef! He tells me that if you eat enough meet, you get the 'meat sweats'. It may take a bit. This sounds horrifying but I can see people doing that.
Shinae and Jihong
Two Korean girls, co-workers, who are traveling around together. They both work with kids in Slovakia. They had been to Venice and felt that it was all tourists, no natives. They went from the fast paced life of Korea to the slower Slovak lifestyle and are still making that adjustment. They're going to stay in Slovakia for a year or two then head back to Korea. They seemed like a lot of fun but sadly, I met them on their last day here. Perhaps I will run into them in the future?
CHEERS BAR
Where after just a couple days, everyone knows my name.
Vera, Gabor and Mayer.
Mayer Aliz is a scientist who I had asked about 'what is the best thing about living in Budapest? She told me that the opportunities to study, work, get culture and such.
We also talked about the subway cars I had seen earlier. She confirmed that they were indeed made in the communist time and that they belong in a museum. She mentioned that just last week one of them either lit on fire or burst into flame.
She also gave me the quote "The heart of Budapest is in the river."
She also recommended to travelers to buy a three day card instead of three one day cards for the metro and such. It is cheaper.
While we were chatting, I asked her what kind of person I was. She said - and I quote - "You are a little strange."
I enjoyed meeting her, Vera (who is the Big Boss of the place!) and Gabor (who is a scientist who studies birds).
I keep on meeting interesting people in there and having good chats, so I keep going back.
THE SEVEN MIRACLES OF COMMUNISM
1. Everyone has a job.
2. Even if everyone has a job, nobody is doing anything.
3. Even if nobody is doing anything, the plan is to do more than 100%.
4. Even if the plan was to do more than 100, there is nothing at the stores.
5. Even if there wasn't anything at the stores, everyone has everything.
6. Even if people have everything, people steal.
7. Even if everyone is stealing, nothing is lacking.
[From a sign in Hungarian, translated into English by Mayer.]
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
BUDAPEST DEATH MARCH
Note: At the time of this writing, $1 = 182 HUF.
CAFE COLONE
At a very posh cafe, Pete and I had "100 grams of marinated duck breast with apple salad with sour cream and cranberry sauce." 169 CZK/ea. Despite the run on sentence in their description (I can do that too!) it was the only small meal I have ever had that I would consider 'refreshing'. Both Pete and I enjoyed it. It was served with white and brown bread. This was served at the cafe 'Colone'.
The service was actually good and helpful there. Overall, a very nice experience.
The total bill for two weird coffee and kaluaha drinks (and a tea for Pete) plus food was about 530 CZK (about $31). Note, this is about the same as lunch for two in Blacksburg, VA and those were served in a much less posh environment.
Cafe Colone, Palacko 7 40/1, 11000 Praha 1. 420 202 518 816, www.cafecolore.cz.
CURRENCY CONVERSION
Remember, when you are trying to get currency exchanged, shop around. Even at 0% commission places, the posted rates you see might be confusing, misleading or in the local currency as opposed to the one you want. Shop around. Take notes and stuff. When I was working on getting Hungarian Florens, I drug Pete around to three different places and got three very different rates. I'd suggest keeping it simple - instead of asking the rate and all of that, pull out (for example) a hundred dollar bill. Have them show you on the calculator (a normal European thing), write it down and move on. Don't let their shocked or saddened faces dissuade you. When you are getting your currency exchanged, get a receipt and (this is the important part) their business card. Take a picture of their store if you want. Let them get the wrong idea. It may help or perhaps I do it to nurture my sadistic tendencies.
The third place I went to that had the better rates is:
Salsid - Smenara
vodickova 30, Praha 1
tel 02 / 24220611 or 777223400 kadi
CORRECTIONS
Note - the beer festival at the pub I went to at the 'Village of Rabbits' was actually an Easter Festival at a winery. Apparently, Ivan's wine is so good that if you drink enough of it you don't know what the hell is going on any more.
Before and after the Village of Rabbits, we had been talking about staying at Jana's house but Marianna generously allowed us to stay at her house. As people who have played or listened to Heroic Cthulhu know, Sanskrt (Jana) had rocking internet from Marianna's house. When I was there I was able to get my photos uploaded. Thanks again Marianna!
Thanks Pete for pointing these out.
WELCOME TO STARBUCKS, BITCH!
I'm not sure what percentage the mixture between Czechs and tourists was, but the place was huge and packed. It was confusing given the Czech mindset of 'penny pinching' I'm wondering if it wasn't mostly tourists. Here's the baffling part:
Chai tea latte, 115 CZK ($6.76)
Frapicchino (my usual drink), 135 CZK (7.94).
This makes Starbucks in Europe about 50% more expensive than in the States. I'm not planning on going again, but I wanted to drag Pete in so that I could report on the prices. End result, stay the fuck out of Starbucks unless you want a really overpriced, overrated cup of coffee. The posh coffee cost less, tasted subjectively better.
MORE CZECH MEETINGS
We also met up with Anna's boyfriend Fanta who gave me a good quote: "I think people (in the Czech Republic) need to learn to use freedom." Interesting stuff that.
REFLECTIONS ON THE CITIES
I had asked Pete (forgot to ask Jana) what he thought the major reason to go to some of the cities were. We really couldn't think of some simple reason to go to Munich. It will always be one of my boyhood homes but to travel there now- I'm not really sure why someone would want to unless they had a keen interest in Bavaria.
Pete's:
Prague: Old buildings, architecture, history.
London: History.
Amsterdam: Feels safe.
Logan's:
Prague: Stuff to photograph.
London: Least scary for people who only speak English as they kind of speak English there.
Amsterdam: Drugs and whores.
AN EXPAT PLACE
While we were at a coffee shop (a proper one) Pete found that the back was some sort of 'expat place'. I went in to check it out so that I could report on it. There was one guy on a computer who didn't speak any English or German. There were four women talking at a table who completely ignored me. After a few minutes, I thought that it was the typical bad Czech service I've come to expect and left. I have no idea what their deal was nor how they made money.
DISCLAIMER ON BUDAPEST STUFF
It may sound like I'm hating life and such but I am actually greatful to be here in Budapest. The first day was just really amazingly hard on me.
BUS TO BUDAPEST
Due to getting only three hours of sleep before leaving - or my bad memory - I had forgotten to offload my Czech coins to Pete. It turned out to not be a horrible thing though as the bus hit me up for a 10 CZK charge to keep a bag under the bus. Later on the bus, I managed to convince the lady in the seat next to me to accept 150 CZK of change for a 100 CZK note that I could trade for HUF later in Hungary. She seemed really well disposed toward me until I had nodded off for awhile then she changed seats claiming that the sun was shining on her too much. Such odd behavior! It is a complete mystery to me.
Even on the yellow 'Student Bus', I'd highly suggest taking your own food and drink as the guy who deals with that is a good example of the stereotype of bad Czech service. Plus, the coffee and water he gets come from very near to the stand up coffin they call a toilet so there is just no telling what happens with that. I believe you could even bring your own alcohol and it wouldn't be a problem if you are the kind of person that likes to initially arrive in a foreign country drunk.
In general, the countryside of the Czech Republic is fields, with a few trees. In Hungary it gradually switched to pretty much forests with some copses of wind towers. A shitload of wind towers.
One of the places we'd stopped in was Bratislava and my first impression was "Holy shit, Eurotrip was right!" In the same way that Prague is a lot of old and new, Bratislava seemed to be decrepit and new. Although where we were at looked like a shithole, a brother and sister (Germans) in Budapest told me it was a great party town with a lot of hiking and nature stuff. No, that tends to not help Logan's opinion but I put it in for completeness. While we were in Bratislava (the bus was on a smoke break) I did chat to a lady from Budapest who was confused as to why anyone would want to visit it after seeing Prague. My initial impressions confirm this but more on that later.
And, naturally, by the time I arrived in Budapest I sure was Hungry! That joke never gets old to me.
BUDAPEST DEATH MARCH
What a fucking day I've had so far. Pete would say that is my fault but I prefer to think of it as 'not my fault'. Pete is probably right.
I had gotten about three hours sleep plus a couple cat naps and I've been hobbling and standing for almost four hours since. My back and legs have given up complaining after the first two hours. I didn't even have anyone to complain to.
I had the wrong impression of what would happen in Budapest. I figured the bus would drop me off in or near the city center and there would be some hostels nearby. I was so wrong.
Although English has become the 'international language' (Czech use it here, for example) the people I have encountered in the so called 'tourist information booths' in the subways don't seem to speak much of it. They also attempt to appear closed and are annoyed when the ticket seller two windows down refers you to them. They have no useful information or maps for you. Several people (Hungarians) I talked to have nodded sadly when I mentioned this to them.
The subway cars I've encountered look like they are from the communist days and are pretty run down. I've since seen new clean modern street cars, but the subway system cars I rode on were not new at all. Avoid getting trapped in the doors as they look to be able to take off an arm. This appears to be a sport for the subway operators.
I got dropped off near the outskirts. I met up with an older Czech couple. The lady was asking me for directions. In her ability to approach random strangers and ask stuff, she was my equal. I decided to go along with them to see if there was any rooms free in the hostel (it wasn't) they said they had booked into. After watching her use the same method I use when trying to find directions to places (keep asking people enroute as you get closer and closer) we at last made it to their strange hotel. The manager wasn't around but the building security guard allowed us to use his cellphone to talk to them. No vacancies. I departed from the happy and nice Czech couple and started walking around asking people where a hostel was.
I don't recommend randomly asking for directions without having a map handy in Budapest. There are three possible reasons why and I don't know which, if any of them is true: a) the people didn't know what I meant by 'hostel'. It's the same word in both English and German. I used both. b) the people were ignorant of what was in their city. Note, this reminds me a lot of Jana. One guy I asked for a street location was a street sweeper. He said he didn't know and it turned out to be the street he was sweeping. I wonder how he gets to work? c) the people I talked to thought 'there is someone who can stand to loose a few pounds - lets give him the run-around.
All of the directions I got were confusing, misleading, bad, false, etc. I did manage to find a place that wanted 14,000 HUF ($54 or so) for a double room but that was out of my price range. I even got physically accosted by a homeless and/or crazy person. I was very close to saying perhaps I should just move on - but I wanted to give Budapest a chance.
But I found some nice people at a hotel that was charging around 50 euros per night (very much out of my price range) but the good people at the Ibis hotel took pity on me. They found me a place, called them to verify they really did have a room, gave me a map, got me directions and off I went.
Logan's advertisement for the wonderful people at the IBIS HOTEL. Stay there. They won't know who I am. Ibis Hotel, H-1134 budapest, dozsa Gyorgy ut 65, phone number (36-1) 392-0200. Nice folks. They sent me to 'Colors Budapest Hostel' Veres Palne utca 14, tel 361 266 8153, near the Ferenciek tere metro stop. Colors is a so so (for people I have been teaching English to, 'so so' may be replaced with 'meh') place but does nearly fit into my price range. And that's what counts.
In all of the other countries, Hostels want your business. They buy a big obvious sign to stick on their building to show you how much they want your business. Not so here. The custom in Budapest seems to be to try to hide a small business card somewhere on the building you are in of your establishment and try to avoid getting found. This has been the case of three different hostels I've been to. I don't know why.
Note that Budapest thus far does NOT seem to be easy for tourist to find their way around but I am still learning it.
While I was writing this, I am drinking overpriced German imported Weiss Beer (white beer, made of wheat) at 760 HUF ($4.22) each.
While I was sitting there, a group of five Germans and I fell into a discussion about Jaegermeister. They liked my comments about it so much they filmed a video clip of me pointing at one of their party and saying "Jaegermeister - he will die!" I doubt that it will make the German equivalent of the Sundance Film Festival but if it becomes part of a movie there, you'll get to see me in it. I am doing my part in German. Joy.
Anyway, after being fortified by two Weiss beers and two cigarettes, I attempted to stand up. I am sure that nearby people thought I was drunk but even on a really empty stomach (so hungry!) that doesn't happen. My legs had locked up. Like when you exercise but don't cool down and stretch afterward. So I slowly hobbled off cursing in several languages and vowing revenge on God for my pain.
Costs: One day ticket for all public transportation, 1550 HUF. Unlike in Prague, they write down on the ticket when you get it rather than allow you to stamp it as entering the subway. This is less convenient as you can't stock up on tickets and burn them as needed. Interestingly, the ticket checkers also stand where you are going to enter to look at some of the tickets. Not very sneaky of them.
DISTANCES IN HUNGARY
"Not far away" - under one hour walking.
"Five meters" - "I don't speak English. Please thank me politely and quickly leave."
"Five hundred meters" - Up to one kilometer away.
"Twenty meters" - Up to one kilometer away.
COUCH SURFING
Due to the high cost of lodgings even here and being reminded by a nice German girl (whose name and the name of her brother I sadly did not get though they may be reading this some time) that it exists, I will be checking out couch surfing. I'm not sure how that will work out but you will find out after I do.
PAST REFLECTIONS - SHAWN O'MALLEY
I can use this guys name because a) I might be spelling it wrong and b) there are so many of them it is almost like saying 'John Doe'. I've tried to look this guy up since and been overwhelmed by how many others there are. Unfortunately, he was someone from the times before Facebook or I'd still have his contact information.
So, I now give you a couple of stories from a long time ago (before Jana was born!) about when I was about eighteen and new someone named Shawn O'Malley.
We initially met up at in Germany. I remember the first meeting well because it was at an unusual Halloween. I was in the military at the time and a bunch of us decided to throw a big Halloween party. I think I contributed something like $200 and it was the smallest individual contribution of anyone. Others contributed up to like $1000. I'm not sure of the exact numbers but there was at least a half dozen people. I remember hearing some or many (not me) of the people actually made their money back by charging a dollar (or a couple of Deutsch Marks - back in pre-Euro time) for admission. There were so many people there it was amazing. We had taken over two large apartments across from each other and the people kept coming and going. Many alcohol runs were made.
I remember meeting Shawn and immediately knowing who he was dressed up as - bathrobe and towel. Arthur Dent? He seemed pleased that I was the only one who knew. Strangely, after he said that I said something along the lines of "That's because all of these other people are idiots" - which is close to the line used in the film. Unlike in the film, the music didn't accidentally cut off just before I said it. No comeuppance! That's what I like!
After the party, the carpeting that was in the apartments was deemed trashed beyond saving, rolled up and thrown out. The carpets weren't cleaned and everything - cigarette butts, spilled drinks, vomit and a human body were all rolled inside and thrown into a big dumpster.
I met Shawn in front of the dumpster - he was still dressed the same aside from a large reddish spot on his bathrobe where someone had probably spilled a drink on him. He still had half of his drink. We fell to talking while the guy who was rolled up and literally trapped within the carpet slowly became conscious and took new stock of his surroundings. Without discussion, Shawn and I ignored his piteous whining and feeble cries for help (I guess you can't get all that much air in your lungs when rolled tightly in a carpet with about 20 kilos of trash) and decided to wander off to go find food together. Later that day as I returned to my home, I noticed the dumpster had been emptied. I speculated how noisy the back loading, fully automated German garbage trucks were and resolved to never pass out at a party.
We never saw that guy again. I'm sure he is living happily in a landfill somewhere.
After that, Shawn and I became friends. And one thing that friends do for each other is to keep lookout when one of them wants to go commit a crime. Asking a new friend to actually help commit the crime is a bit much but 'yell if you see anything bad like police' is still within the acceptable range.
So, Shawn had decided he wanted to rob a church for some reason. During the middle of the day. He was just that kind of guy. I personally figure God has enough shit and wasn't going to miss whatever Shawn could make off with. I figured robbing from a church was a bit much but you must remember that at that time I was a mere eighteen years old, slitting throats for our country and making a decent living at it. So, I was more dumb than now. Many people who currently know me well would object that me being dumber than now is not possible to which I reply 'Shut your stinking holes!'
So, we went to rob a church. It wasn't actually that unusual of day for that time in my life. Anyway, the church was unusual in that it sat in the middle of a large and fairly spooky graveyard. Which was having a funeral. With a couple hundred people.
I felt smug in this because I really didn't have a big interest in seeing if there was a God and I could anger him by robbing from his minions. No, I wanted McDonalds instead. But I could console Shawn.
"Looks like you're fucked." I said, being the consoling, caring Logan.
"Nah. I'll just think myself invisible and go rob it." Shawn replied.
A couple interesting points to make. Shawn had an unusual dress sense. He normally wore a brown leather jacket and (for some reason) a black scarf with silver piping. And black pants. He wasn't well enough dressed to fit in with the mourners nor was he poorly enough dressed to fit in with the grave diggers. In other words, he'd stick out. A lot.
The second thing to know about Shawn - he thought he was a ninja. Not a movie or TV show ninja but a real live ninja. The fact that he was of Irish descent and had never been closer to Japan than eating with chopsticks didn't seem to impact this belief pattern.
"OK." I replied. I thought about it and said "If we get separated, we'll meet at the McDonald's." My evil plan was fiendish in it's intricacy. Shawn thought that was a good idea and waded into the crowd. After waiting for a minute to see if crowds of angry machine gun wielding German policemen would pop up from behind the tombstones, I hurried off to McDonald's. I figured Shawn would scope it out, be defeated by way too many people and join me in McDonald's.
So, I'm at McDonald's justifying not ordering Shawn and trying to figure out if the reason was that he gets to eat prison food or that I just don't know what he wants. Shawn showed up to McDonald's and seemed disinterested in the food. I grunted and he sat.
"I thought it would be too hard." I said around a mixture of fries and Big Mac in my maw. Shawn smiled and placed a gym bag on the table. I eyed it and said a common American expression - "What the fuck is this shit?"
Shawn opened it and showed me the priests clothing.
"You stole his clothing? Really??"
"While he was in the next room in the shower." Shawn smiled.
At this point, I began to suspect Shawn might not be lying about being a ninja. Later, when Shawn was sparring with my Hapkido instructor, Bob Spear, and they both came to mutual destruction using the same blow, I was taking his outrageous ninja related claims more seriously.
It feels weird sitting in a hostel in Budapest reminiscing about someone I met in Germany.
CAFE COLONE
At a very posh cafe, Pete and I had "100 grams of marinated duck breast with apple salad with sour cream and cranberry sauce." 169 CZK/ea. Despite the run on sentence in their description (I can do that too!) it was the only small meal I have ever had that I would consider 'refreshing'. Both Pete and I enjoyed it. It was served with white and brown bread. This was served at the cafe 'Colone'.
The service was actually good and helpful there. Overall, a very nice experience.
The total bill for two weird coffee and kaluaha drinks (and a tea for Pete) plus food was about 530 CZK (about $31). Note, this is about the same as lunch for two in Blacksburg, VA and those were served in a much less posh environment.
Cafe Colone, Palacko 7 40/1, 11000 Praha 1. 420 202 518 816, www.cafecolore.cz.
CURRENCY CONVERSION
Remember, when you are trying to get currency exchanged, shop around. Even at 0% commission places, the posted rates you see might be confusing, misleading or in the local currency as opposed to the one you want. Shop around. Take notes and stuff. When I was working on getting Hungarian Florens, I drug Pete around to three different places and got three very different rates. I'd suggest keeping it simple - instead of asking the rate and all of that, pull out (for example) a hundred dollar bill. Have them show you on the calculator (a normal European thing), write it down and move on. Don't let their shocked or saddened faces dissuade you. When you are getting your currency exchanged, get a receipt and (this is the important part) their business card. Take a picture of their store if you want. Let them get the wrong idea. It may help or perhaps I do it to nurture my sadistic tendencies.
The third place I went to that had the better rates is:
Salsid - Smenara
vodickova 30, Praha 1
tel 02 / 24220611 or 777223400 kadi
CORRECTIONS
Note - the beer festival at the pub I went to at the 'Village of Rabbits' was actually an Easter Festival at a winery. Apparently, Ivan's wine is so good that if you drink enough of it you don't know what the hell is going on any more.
Before and after the Village of Rabbits, we had been talking about staying at Jana's house but Marianna generously allowed us to stay at her house. As people who have played or listened to Heroic Cthulhu know, Sanskrt (Jana) had rocking internet from Marianna's house. When I was there I was able to get my photos uploaded. Thanks again Marianna!
Thanks Pete for pointing these out.
WELCOME TO STARBUCKS, BITCH!
I'm not sure what percentage the mixture between Czechs and tourists was, but the place was huge and packed. It was confusing given the Czech mindset of 'penny pinching' I'm wondering if it wasn't mostly tourists. Here's the baffling part:
Chai tea latte, 115 CZK ($6.76)
Frapicchino (my usual drink), 135 CZK (7.94).
This makes Starbucks in Europe about 50% more expensive than in the States. I'm not planning on going again, but I wanted to drag Pete in so that I could report on the prices. End result, stay the fuck out of Starbucks unless you want a really overpriced, overrated cup of coffee. The posh coffee cost less, tasted subjectively better.
MORE CZECH MEETINGS
We also met up with Anna's boyfriend Fanta who gave me a good quote: "I think people (in the Czech Republic) need to learn to use freedom." Interesting stuff that.
REFLECTIONS ON THE CITIES
I had asked Pete (forgot to ask Jana) what he thought the major reason to go to some of the cities were. We really couldn't think of some simple reason to go to Munich. It will always be one of my boyhood homes but to travel there now- I'm not really sure why someone would want to unless they had a keen interest in Bavaria.
Pete's:
Prague: Old buildings, architecture, history.
London: History.
Amsterdam: Feels safe.
Logan's:
Prague: Stuff to photograph.
London: Least scary for people who only speak English as they kind of speak English there.
Amsterdam: Drugs and whores.
AN EXPAT PLACE
While we were at a coffee shop (a proper one) Pete found that the back was some sort of 'expat place'. I went in to check it out so that I could report on it. There was one guy on a computer who didn't speak any English or German. There were four women talking at a table who completely ignored me. After a few minutes, I thought that it was the typical bad Czech service I've come to expect and left. I have no idea what their deal was nor how they made money.
DISCLAIMER ON BUDAPEST STUFF
It may sound like I'm hating life and such but I am actually greatful to be here in Budapest. The first day was just really amazingly hard on me.
BUS TO BUDAPEST
Due to getting only three hours of sleep before leaving - or my bad memory - I had forgotten to offload my Czech coins to Pete. It turned out to not be a horrible thing though as the bus hit me up for a 10 CZK charge to keep a bag under the bus. Later on the bus, I managed to convince the lady in the seat next to me to accept 150 CZK of change for a 100 CZK note that I could trade for HUF later in Hungary. She seemed really well disposed toward me until I had nodded off for awhile then she changed seats claiming that the sun was shining on her too much. Such odd behavior! It is a complete mystery to me.
Even on the yellow 'Student Bus', I'd highly suggest taking your own food and drink as the guy who deals with that is a good example of the stereotype of bad Czech service. Plus, the coffee and water he gets come from very near to the stand up coffin they call a toilet so there is just no telling what happens with that. I believe you could even bring your own alcohol and it wouldn't be a problem if you are the kind of person that likes to initially arrive in a foreign country drunk.
In general, the countryside of the Czech Republic is fields, with a few trees. In Hungary it gradually switched to pretty much forests with some copses of wind towers. A shitload of wind towers.
One of the places we'd stopped in was Bratislava and my first impression was "Holy shit, Eurotrip was right!" In the same way that Prague is a lot of old and new, Bratislava seemed to be decrepit and new. Although where we were at looked like a shithole, a brother and sister (Germans) in Budapest told me it was a great party town with a lot of hiking and nature stuff. No, that tends to not help Logan's opinion but I put it in for completeness. While we were in Bratislava (the bus was on a smoke break) I did chat to a lady from Budapest who was confused as to why anyone would want to visit it after seeing Prague. My initial impressions confirm this but more on that later.
And, naturally, by the time I arrived in Budapest I sure was Hungry! That joke never gets old to me.
BUDAPEST DEATH MARCH
What a fucking day I've had so far. Pete would say that is my fault but I prefer to think of it as 'not my fault'. Pete is probably right.
I had gotten about three hours sleep plus a couple cat naps and I've been hobbling and standing for almost four hours since. My back and legs have given up complaining after the first two hours. I didn't even have anyone to complain to.
I had the wrong impression of what would happen in Budapest. I figured the bus would drop me off in or near the city center and there would be some hostels nearby. I was so wrong.
Although English has become the 'international language' (Czech use it here, for example) the people I have encountered in the so called 'tourist information booths' in the subways don't seem to speak much of it. They also attempt to appear closed and are annoyed when the ticket seller two windows down refers you to them. They have no useful information or maps for you. Several people (Hungarians) I talked to have nodded sadly when I mentioned this to them.
The subway cars I've encountered look like they are from the communist days and are pretty run down. I've since seen new clean modern street cars, but the subway system cars I rode on were not new at all. Avoid getting trapped in the doors as they look to be able to take off an arm. This appears to be a sport for the subway operators.
I got dropped off near the outskirts. I met up with an older Czech couple. The lady was asking me for directions. In her ability to approach random strangers and ask stuff, she was my equal. I decided to go along with them to see if there was any rooms free in the hostel (it wasn't) they said they had booked into. After watching her use the same method I use when trying to find directions to places (keep asking people enroute as you get closer and closer) we at last made it to their strange hotel. The manager wasn't around but the building security guard allowed us to use his cellphone to talk to them. No vacancies. I departed from the happy and nice Czech couple and started walking around asking people where a hostel was.
I don't recommend randomly asking for directions without having a map handy in Budapest. There are three possible reasons why and I don't know which, if any of them is true: a) the people didn't know what I meant by 'hostel'. It's the same word in both English and German. I used both. b) the people were ignorant of what was in their city. Note, this reminds me a lot of Jana. One guy I asked for a street location was a street sweeper. He said he didn't know and it turned out to be the street he was sweeping. I wonder how he gets to work? c) the people I talked to thought 'there is someone who can stand to loose a few pounds - lets give him the run-around.
All of the directions I got were confusing, misleading, bad, false, etc. I did manage to find a place that wanted 14,000 HUF ($54 or so) for a double room but that was out of my price range. I even got physically accosted by a homeless and/or crazy person. I was very close to saying perhaps I should just move on - but I wanted to give Budapest a chance.
But I found some nice people at a hotel that was charging around 50 euros per night (very much out of my price range) but the good people at the Ibis hotel took pity on me. They found me a place, called them to verify they really did have a room, gave me a map, got me directions and off I went.
Logan's advertisement for the wonderful people at the IBIS HOTEL. Stay there. They won't know who I am. Ibis Hotel, H-1134 budapest, dozsa Gyorgy ut 65, phone number (36-1) 392-0200. Nice folks. They sent me to 'Colors Budapest Hostel' Veres Palne utca 14, tel 361 266 8153, near the Ferenciek tere metro stop. Colors is a so so (for people I have been teaching English to, 'so so' may be replaced with 'meh') place but does nearly fit into my price range. And that's what counts.
In all of the other countries, Hostels want your business. They buy a big obvious sign to stick on their building to show you how much they want your business. Not so here. The custom in Budapest seems to be to try to hide a small business card somewhere on the building you are in of your establishment and try to avoid getting found. This has been the case of three different hostels I've been to. I don't know why.
Note that Budapest thus far does NOT seem to be easy for tourist to find their way around but I am still learning it.
While I was writing this, I am drinking overpriced German imported Weiss Beer (white beer, made of wheat) at 760 HUF ($4.22) each.
While I was sitting there, a group of five Germans and I fell into a discussion about Jaegermeister. They liked my comments about it so much they filmed a video clip of me pointing at one of their party and saying "Jaegermeister - he will die!" I doubt that it will make the German equivalent of the Sundance Film Festival but if it becomes part of a movie there, you'll get to see me in it. I am doing my part in German. Joy.
Anyway, after being fortified by two Weiss beers and two cigarettes, I attempted to stand up. I am sure that nearby people thought I was drunk but even on a really empty stomach (so hungry!) that doesn't happen. My legs had locked up. Like when you exercise but don't cool down and stretch afterward. So I slowly hobbled off cursing in several languages and vowing revenge on God for my pain.
Costs: One day ticket for all public transportation, 1550 HUF. Unlike in Prague, they write down on the ticket when you get it rather than allow you to stamp it as entering the subway. This is less convenient as you can't stock up on tickets and burn them as needed. Interestingly, the ticket checkers also stand where you are going to enter to look at some of the tickets. Not very sneaky of them.
DISTANCES IN HUNGARY
"Not far away" - under one hour walking.
"Five meters" - "I don't speak English. Please thank me politely and quickly leave."
"Five hundred meters" - Up to one kilometer away.
"Twenty meters" - Up to one kilometer away.
COUCH SURFING
Due to the high cost of lodgings even here and being reminded by a nice German girl (whose name and the name of her brother I sadly did not get though they may be reading this some time) that it exists, I will be checking out couch surfing. I'm not sure how that will work out but you will find out after I do.
PAST REFLECTIONS - SHAWN O'MALLEY
I can use this guys name because a) I might be spelling it wrong and b) there are so many of them it is almost like saying 'John Doe'. I've tried to look this guy up since and been overwhelmed by how many others there are. Unfortunately, he was someone from the times before Facebook or I'd still have his contact information.
So, I now give you a couple of stories from a long time ago (before Jana was born!) about when I was about eighteen and new someone named Shawn O'Malley.
We initially met up at in Germany. I remember the first meeting well because it was at an unusual Halloween. I was in the military at the time and a bunch of us decided to throw a big Halloween party. I think I contributed something like $200 and it was the smallest individual contribution of anyone. Others contributed up to like $1000. I'm not sure of the exact numbers but there was at least a half dozen people. I remember hearing some or many (not me) of the people actually made their money back by charging a dollar (or a couple of Deutsch Marks - back in pre-Euro time) for admission. There were so many people there it was amazing. We had taken over two large apartments across from each other and the people kept coming and going. Many alcohol runs were made.
I remember meeting Shawn and immediately knowing who he was dressed up as - bathrobe and towel. Arthur Dent? He seemed pleased that I was the only one who knew. Strangely, after he said that I said something along the lines of "That's because all of these other people are idiots" - which is close to the line used in the film. Unlike in the film, the music didn't accidentally cut off just before I said it. No comeuppance! That's what I like!
After the party, the carpeting that was in the apartments was deemed trashed beyond saving, rolled up and thrown out. The carpets weren't cleaned and everything - cigarette butts, spilled drinks, vomit and a human body were all rolled inside and thrown into a big dumpster.
I met Shawn in front of the dumpster - he was still dressed the same aside from a large reddish spot on his bathrobe where someone had probably spilled a drink on him. He still had half of his drink. We fell to talking while the guy who was rolled up and literally trapped within the carpet slowly became conscious and took new stock of his surroundings. Without discussion, Shawn and I ignored his piteous whining and feeble cries for help (I guess you can't get all that much air in your lungs when rolled tightly in a carpet with about 20 kilos of trash) and decided to wander off to go find food together. Later that day as I returned to my home, I noticed the dumpster had been emptied. I speculated how noisy the back loading, fully automated German garbage trucks were and resolved to never pass out at a party.
We never saw that guy again. I'm sure he is living happily in a landfill somewhere.
After that, Shawn and I became friends. And one thing that friends do for each other is to keep lookout when one of them wants to go commit a crime. Asking a new friend to actually help commit the crime is a bit much but 'yell if you see anything bad like police' is still within the acceptable range.
So, Shawn had decided he wanted to rob a church for some reason. During the middle of the day. He was just that kind of guy. I personally figure God has enough shit and wasn't going to miss whatever Shawn could make off with. I figured robbing from a church was a bit much but you must remember that at that time I was a mere eighteen years old, slitting throats for our country and making a decent living at it. So, I was more dumb than now. Many people who currently know me well would object that me being dumber than now is not possible to which I reply 'Shut your stinking holes!'
So, we went to rob a church. It wasn't actually that unusual of day for that time in my life. Anyway, the church was unusual in that it sat in the middle of a large and fairly spooky graveyard. Which was having a funeral. With a couple hundred people.
I felt smug in this because I really didn't have a big interest in seeing if there was a God and I could anger him by robbing from his minions. No, I wanted McDonalds instead. But I could console Shawn.
"Looks like you're fucked." I said, being the consoling, caring Logan.
"Nah. I'll just think myself invisible and go rob it." Shawn replied.
A couple interesting points to make. Shawn had an unusual dress sense. He normally wore a brown leather jacket and (for some reason) a black scarf with silver piping. And black pants. He wasn't well enough dressed to fit in with the mourners nor was he poorly enough dressed to fit in with the grave diggers. In other words, he'd stick out. A lot.
The second thing to know about Shawn - he thought he was a ninja. Not a movie or TV show ninja but a real live ninja. The fact that he was of Irish descent and had never been closer to Japan than eating with chopsticks didn't seem to impact this belief pattern.
"OK." I replied. I thought about it and said "If we get separated, we'll meet at the McDonald's." My evil plan was fiendish in it's intricacy. Shawn thought that was a good idea and waded into the crowd. After waiting for a minute to see if crowds of angry machine gun wielding German policemen would pop up from behind the tombstones, I hurried off to McDonald's. I figured Shawn would scope it out, be defeated by way too many people and join me in McDonald's.
So, I'm at McDonald's justifying not ordering Shawn and trying to figure out if the reason was that he gets to eat prison food or that I just don't know what he wants. Shawn showed up to McDonald's and seemed disinterested in the food. I grunted and he sat.
"I thought it would be too hard." I said around a mixture of fries and Big Mac in my maw. Shawn smiled and placed a gym bag on the table. I eyed it and said a common American expression - "What the fuck is this shit?"
Shawn opened it and showed me the priests clothing.
"You stole his clothing? Really??"
"While he was in the next room in the shower." Shawn smiled.
At this point, I began to suspect Shawn might not be lying about being a ninja. Later, when Shawn was sparring with my Hapkido instructor, Bob Spear, and they both came to mutual destruction using the same blow, I was taking his outrageous ninja related claims more seriously.
It feels weird sitting in a hostel in Budapest reminiscing about someone I met in Germany.
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