PICTURES

{{2011}} London, GB | Rail N Sail | Amsterdam, Netherlands | Prague, Czech Republic | Budapest, Hungary | Sarajevo, Bosnia | Romania | Chisinau, Moldova | Ukraine: Odessa - Sevastopol | Crossed Black Sea by ship | Georgia: Batumi - Tbilisi - Telavi - Sighnaghi - Chabukiani | Turkey: Kars - Lost City of Ani - Goreme - Istanbul | Jordan: Amman - Wadi Rum | Israel | Egypt: Neweiba - Luxor - Karnak - Cairo | Thailand: Bangkok - Pattaya - Chaing Mai - Chaing Rei | Laos: Luang Prabang - Pakse | Cambodia: Phnom Penh | Vietnam: Vung Tau - Saigon aka Ho Chi Minh City

{{2012}} Cambodia: Kampot - Sihanoukville - Siem Reap - Angkor Wat | Thailand: Bangkok | India: Rishikesh - Ajmer - Pushkar - Bundi - Udaipur - Jodhpur - Jasalmer - Bikaner - Jaipur - Agra - Varanasi | Nepal: Kathmandu - Chitwan - Pokhara - Bhaktapur - (Rafting) - Dharan | India: Darjeeling - Calcutta Panaji | Thailand: Bangkok - again - Krabi Town | Malaysia, Malaka | Indonesia: Dumas - Bukittinggi - Kuta - Ubud - 'Full Throttle' - Gili Islands - Senggigi | Cambodia: Siem Reap | Thailand: Trat | Turkey: Istanbul | Georgia: Tbilisi

{{2013}} Latvia: Riga | Germany: Berlin | Spain: Malaga - Grenada | Morocco: Marrakech - Essauira - Casablanca - Chefchawen - Fes | Germany: Frankfurt | Logan's Home Invasion USA: Virginia - Michigan - Indiana - Illinois - Illinois - Colorado | Guatemala: Antigua - San Pedro | Honduras: Copan Ruinas - Utila | Nicaragua: Granada | Colombia: Cartagena | Ecuador: Otavalo - Quito - Banos - Samari (a spa outside of Banos) - Puyo - Mera

{{2014}} Peru: Lima - Nasca - Cusco | Dominican Republic | Ukraine: Odessa | Bulgaria: Varna - Plovdiv | Macedonia: Skopje - Bitola - Ohrid - Struga | Albania: Berat - Sarande | Greece: Athens | Italy: Naples - Pompeii - Salerno | Tunisia: Hammamet 1

{{2015}} Hammamet 2 | South Africa: Johnnesburg | Thailand: Hua Hin - Hat Yai | Malaysia: Georgetown | Thailand: Krabi Town | Indonesia:
Sabang Island | Bulgaria: Plovdiv | Romania: Ploiesti - Targu Mures | Poland: Warsaw | Czech Republic: Prague | Germany: Munich | Netherlands: Groningen | England: Slough | Thailand: Ayutthaya - Khon Kaen - Vang Vieng | Cambodia: Siem Reap

{{2016}} Thailand: Kanchanaburi - Chumphon | Malaysia: Ipoh - Kuala Lumpur - Kuching - Miri | Ukraine: Kiev | Romania: Targu Mures - Barsov | Morocco: Tetouan

{{2017}} Portugal: Faro | USA: Virginia - Michigan - Illinois - Colorado | England: Slough - Lancaster | Thailand: Bangkok | Cambodia: Siem Reap

{{2018}} Ukraine: Kiev - Chernihiv - Uzhhorod | UK: Camberley | Italy: Naples Pompeii | USA Washington DC | Merced California

{{2019}} Las Vegas Nevada | Wroclaw, Poland | Odessa, Ukraine | Romania |

For videos with a Loganesque slant, be sure to visit here. You can also Facebook Logan.
Showing posts with label Lima. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lima. Show all posts

Thursday, January 30, 2014

ROUND THE WORLD IN ACHING DAYS

MR LOGAN'S WILD RIDE

Last night I glanced at my computer clock and said "Oh my god, I've only got an hour and a half till my flight!"

Hate leaving at 2:30AM.  It's a dodgy time that shouldn't exist.

First step, go wake the house.  I need a taxi right the hell now!  The cleaner summoned the owner who hurried off to get a cab.  "Rapido!" I pleaded.

I began tossing stuff into my bags.  No time to do it right - just make sure to get everything!

The cab showed up in record time just as I had finished filling my bags.

Quickly thanking them I rushed out and tossed my stuff in the back.  "Aeropuerto!  Mucho rapido por favor!"  (Note - the next few parts of the conversation were in Spanish - I'm putting it as English for ease of reading.)

We got in and started heading to the airport.  "An extra 10 sols to get me there very fast!"

He was into it and we were going very fast.

At this point, I realized my passport and money were still hidden under the bed back at the hostel.  "I'm stupid!  We have to go back!  My passport!"

We called the hostel and he talked to the owner.  I told her where my passport was and to please get it and meet us out front.

"OK - double the normal fare, 60 sols, fast back to the hostel and then to the airport!"

In the 1970's, you could tell how fast a car was going when a hubcap would suddenly shoot off while it was doing a turn.  We were going that fast in his rickety old station wagon.   He was, however, out of hubcaps.

We squeeled up in front of the hostel and the sleepless owner thrust my passport case at me.  I gave her 10 sols for the trouble and we raced back into the night.

Nearly biting the back of the seat in frustration I watched as we slowed only for speed bumps.  Running red lights nearly got us into a few accidents.   Were the police more watchful we'd have gotten busted for sure.

Squeeled up in front of the airport.  Paid the courageous driver.  Grabbed my shit.  Rushed to the front entrance.  You've got to show your passport at the door to get in.  There was some other customer there who seemed to be having problems with this concept.

"I'm late!" I roared and thrust my passport into the hands of the guard.  He looked at it to make sure I was the correct gringo from the picture then waved me through.

There was the counter and two people older than dust.  They were moving at the usual speed of old people - the death shuffle.

"I'm late!" I roared at them and thrust my paperwork at the surprised attendant.

She took a close look at my paperwork.

"Your flight isn't until tomorrow."

Blink.

"Pardon?"

"Today is the twenty-sixth.  Your flight is on the twenty-seventh.  Come back tomorrow at this time.  Or earlier."

"Er...  Are you sure?"  At this point I began thinking back to my earlier bottle of wine just before realizing the time.  All is not lost - I could still blame it on my computer.

When I mentioned perhaps I could just stay at the airport to avoid the shame of going back, she told me to go get some sleep.  She called the hostel for me to let the beleaguered owner know I would be back.  And they all had a good laugh as I smiled weakly, the adrenaline still chugging through me.

After stupidly spending about $35, the owner of the hostel gave me a free water - as a type of consolation prize I suppose.



TRIP HALFWAY AROUND THE WORLD

After (again) leaving the most quiet place in Lima, Casa Ana, I went to the airport.

The correct time, this time.

After endlessly waiting for the counter to open, other tourists and I were presented with the "Floor Show of Ineptitude".

They have movable posts with retractable red ribbons.  Retractable queue barriers.
We watched an employee trying to set it up.  She couldn't figure it out and kept moving them to different areas.  To make it worse, she had a diagram of where they were suppose to go.  After trying and failing for fifteen or twenty minutes, she decided to consult with what I refer to as the 'brain trust'.  Sadly, they couldn't figure it out either.  We watched and quietly mocked a succession of no less than five inept people working alone or in groups fail.

Eventually, the people who were suppose to open the desk showed up and put things to right.

At the counter was the same lady I'd met up with previously.

Today, the tickets being one way bothered her.  "Do you live in Ukraine?"

At this point, I began wildly inventing.  "Yes!"

"Do you have your residence card?"

"Not on me,  it's there."  In my mind, I began to assemble a wild house of cards and figure out tricky ways of using the language barrier to the best of my ability.  She went and spoke to a college and they decided it would be in the best interest of the continent to expel me from South America.

At this point, I was told I'd need to pay the 'escape this shitty airport' tax of $31 USD.  In USD.  Naturally, I'd already exchanged my remaining Peruvian Sols for Euros since I had a stop in Frankfurt.

Fortunately since I am suspicious, paranoid, jaded and experienced I always carry some small dollar notes on me.  I would now be permitted to begin a grueling series of flights connected with debilitating layovers.

I'm actually more nervous about going through all of the airports with their bureaucracy than heading to a country which the news paints as 'teetering on revolution'.  TSA and airport staff - worse than revolution.  Certainly after all of the indignities and inconvenience the TSA and airports put you through some people must find the plane simply blowing up to be a relief.

At this point, my normal self fell into an extremely disorganized role.  It seemed as though I was attempting to hide papers from myself I'd just looked at but needed to reference again.  Despite chaos attempting to trip me up, I ended up in...

...the Dominican Republic?


Stay tuned!



FICTIONAL STORY (not meant to be a religious debate)

Describe Heaven.  Most reading that sentence have either glazed over it or believe they can and it's not even worth stopping to think about.  This is not so.  Even the Bible, which I had been brought up as a child in the Roman Catholic faith to believe is surprisingly vague on it.   All that I recall was in John 14:2 "In my father's house are many rooms."   This is not helpful.  The scriptures are about how to get into Heaven but what is it like?

Vague things are brought up.  That's where you will be reunited with your mother, father and old friends - unless they were wicked and went to Hell.  This tells you nothing.  Long after I had died they began saying things like 'reunited with the source'.  Nobody knows.

Contrast this with Hell.  Even when I was alive, the 'Divina Commedia' - later called the 'Divine Comedy' - had been around for close to five hundred years.  So exacting and gruesome were it's descriptions of Hell that everyone was terrified.  Everyone wanted to go to Heaven - anything is better.  Later, I was given the same choice.

Although I had begun working at the age of five and had begun to produce notable work by the age of fourteen, money always fled from me.  I had squandered it on lavish living.  Perhaps one of the people I had borrowed money from had poisoned me.

My wife and two sons had just left the room when the man with the odd spectacles appeared.  He was wholly unremarkable and appeared as a common laborer might complete with a somewhat paunchy stomach.  Indeed, the only remarkable thing about him were his large darkened spectacles.  He locked the door and pulled a chair near.

The thought that he might be here to murder me filled me not with dread but relief as it would end the pain, swelling and vomiting which had afflicted me for the last week.

The man spoke my native German, but he spoke slowly, deliberately and would often mispronounce words and would hesitate for several moments before answering any question.  It were as though he was not wholly familiar with German and was reading it.  Indeed this was the case.

"You are going to feel a small hurt.  Then you will feel better.  This so we may talk short time."

I barely felt the prick upon my arm but almost immediately, I felt well enough to converse and even managed to sit up.

"Short time last.  We must talk private.  If you call help, I leave."

My throat was still stinging from the last time I had vomited but I managed to croak "Who are you?"

"I am the choice man.  You have choice.  You may die normally.  Or you may live.  If you live you must come with me.  Never again see wife.  Sons.  Friends.  Familiar.  Nothing.  But you may choose."

Even though his garbled German, I believed his accent to be English.  My success in Vienna could have spread to England now.  It would have been much simpler toinvite me to England rather than this elaborate poisoning plot.

"Who would choose death?" I whispered.

He frowned at me before responding.

"Many."  He leaned forward and looked at me through his large dark spectacles.

Within I could see my wasted, shriveled body.  I've always been small and fair before but now I looked like a white ghost.  He seemed oddly melancholic as he stared at me.  It seemed that he had the unenviable task of offering me two poor choices.

"Is life a good choice?"

He rubbed the stubble on his chin, considering his answer.

"It is only a..." and then he said a word I could not understand.  Eventually he managed to to sound it out and the word became 'erweiterung' - extension.

Because I feared the stick of death, the carrot of life seemed better.  There was another prick in my arm.  As blackness took me, I wondered if I would ever finish my Requiem.



LOGAN'S VOYAGE INTERVIEW

Today we are interviewing Logan of "Logan's Voyage".  Logan, welcome to the show.

"Am I getting paid for this?"

"No."

"Shit."

"Now Logan, what makes your blog different from the other travel blogs?"

"Mine is hopefully less dull.  Most people's blogs are pics of nice things they've seen.  With them in front of it.  Stuff I could find on the internet and photoshop the person in front of it.  The sites aren't what gets you - it's the stories."

"Could you give us an example?"

"Sure.  If a guy goes up to Manchu Picchu and takes a bunch of pictures, nobody cares.  Everyone has seen pictures of them.  But if he sexually satisfies a donkey on the way up or has pictures taken of him dry humping artifacts thousands of years old, it is more interesting."

"I see...  What else makes your blog different?"

"Honesty.  Most of the travel writers and TV personalities you get to see being slick.  They have teams of people who set up everything ahead of time.  You don't get to hear about them in a drunken panic driving pell mell to the airport to catch a plane that isn't until tomorrow.  You get to see them wandering around.   Being all slick.  With budgets.  Getting paid for wandering around.  Hate them so much..."

"Logan!  Logan!  Snap out of it!"

"Oh - was I talking about humor?"

"Obviously not.  And that concludes our interview with Logan of "Logan's Voyage"!  We hope that it encourages you to go traveling but not do any of the things he does."

"Except sexually satisfy donkeys."

"Shut up.  And that's all for now.  Back to our regularly scheduled viewing."

Sunday, January 26, 2014

CUSCO PERU

CUSCO TO LIMA AND RANDOM MUSINGS

The cheapest airline ticket (around $100) I could find was through 'Star Peru' Airlines.  I expected their website wouldn't work due to slipshod programming and I wasn't disappointed.  They have an office right here in Cusco.  I recognized the street name and staggered (still altitude sick) over to it.

Since they weren't open yet, I stopped by a little artsy place and had some cheese cake and coffee for breakfast.  There were strawberries on top of the cheesecake, so it was healthy.  As I sat around this little art deco place, musings started in my head along the lines of 'where would I visit were money not an issue'?

Every year for half a year, I'd probably be in western and central Europe.

Were I forced somehow to have a residence, it would be somewhere in Germany.

Rich or poor, unless I get hired or bribed heavily, I think I'm done with central and south America.  With the exception of a few diamonds in the rough (Copan, Banos, Cuzco) most of the cities have no more charm than cinder blocks can provide.  Don't get me wrong - I don't mind them if the cost of living is cheap (SE Asia) but here you end up paying quite a bit and wondering 'why?'


Cusco might be the highest I've been in my life.  Aside from Amsterdam.



THE TOUR BUS

As I was wheezing and shuffling around the main square, a tour guide presented me with an offer to get on his double decker open topped bus for 20 sols.  What the hell.  Last day here.

Videos of this trip are below in the 'video' section.   I appologize for the extremely unsteady cam but I suspect the shock absorbers had been sold for magic beans years ago.

En route I was nearly decapitated by a very low hanging wire.  Were it not for moderately fast reflexes and a bit of luck I'd have a tough time with hats.

The truly sad thing is this bus drives the same route several times a day and nobody even though to warn the passengers - much less get the wire hoisted up a bit.  Since I was in South America it didn't astound me.  Glad I didn't say 'it didn't shock me'.  That could have been taken the wrong way.  Oh - so could that.

Moving on.

Two minutes after leaving the first ten minute stop, we did another ten minute stop at a souvenir shop.  Taking a captive audience to an over priced shop where the bus people get kickbacks is a normal tactic.  Normally, the only people who buy anything at these places are the same sort of idiots who think shopping in airports is a grand idea.  We had two on the bus.



PERUVIAN ALCOHOL

Due to being sick, I didn't sample nearly as much as I'd have liked.

The wine I had was excellent.

The beers, however, are cold, wet and infinitely safer than the water.  That's about all that can be said for them.  They're not bad but neither are they worth drinking for taste.



HOW TO SELECT AND USE AN ATM

When going to an ATM, pretend you are a spy who is going to get a hand off.  Be suspicious.  Make sure you're not being sized up for a quick grab and dash.  After using the ATM, make sure you're not followed out.  Get in and out quick - don't linger.  Don't hang out near an ATM if you're not using one.  Tourists tend to have a lot of money compared to locals in most countries.  Don't be a target.

From worst to best, here are the ATM's.

Exposed to the street, no guards.

Inside of an unlocked room.

Inside of an unlocked room with a bored security guard.  This includes ATM's in stores, etc.

Inside of a locked room.  There are ATM's you have to swipe your card at the door just to get in or better still guards have to let you in.

Inside of a bank, only accessible when the bank is.  This is the best because banks tend to have more security to deter people from putting phishing equipment on the ATM.  Also, should the ATM steal your card or give you the wrong bills (or counterfeit) the bank is right there.

I believe it is better to have too much money on you than not quite enough.  As recent history has shown, shit happens.  Your cards will get stolen or compromised and then it comes down to 'do you have rainy day money hidden away somewhere or are you just fucked?'



SHAMPOO

As anyone who has traveled knows (should know) bar soap isn't really good to carry around.  Liquid soap is the way to go.

For some reason, nobody in Peru seems to use liquid soap and it isn't for sale anywhere I could find.

So now I have to make due with shampoo and see if it rejuvenates and makes glossy my pubes.



THE HOSPITAL

The doctor I'd seen in Cusco was insistent that I have my blood pressure checked.  While out wandering around, I came across what appeared to be a hospital.

They had two hefty women at the door checking bags.  In Spanish they demanded to know if I had a camera on me.  Unwilling to admit to or relinquish my camera and not wanting them to be able to search the bag more thoroughly (I could have had a gun in there and they'd have not found it) I began repeating 'photo' and making various outrageous poses as though I wanted them to take my photo.

Rolling their eyes, they let the idiot foreigner inside.

Yeah, boy!

It was a mad house.  Entire families with the 'don't use birth control or you're going to hell' size families all jostled for position.  A kind worker spotted the immense gringo, figured out what I wanted (my Spanish isn't great but blood pressure test isn't hard) and became my personal guide through the bedlam.

It's times like that - when you immediately get a personal guide that being an obvious foreigner is a good deal.

He took me to a much quieter wing and I immediately had three doctors.

The cuff to take the blood pressure was pretty tiny.  When I inquired about it, turns out this is a children's hospital.  I told them I was a 'grande nino' (giant child) and that got a laugh.

They had to use surgical tape on the blood pressure cuff but it worked and showed my BP had fallen 15 points since leaving the high altitude of Cusco.

Excellent.

They all bade me farewell.  No charge.

Afterward, I went and celebrated with empinada kaso (cheesy bread).



TRAVELERS TIPS

Never be the last one back on the bus after a stop.  You might lose your seat, everyone on the bus thinks you are inept - especially if the driver had to look for you and lastly you might just get left behind.


If you are in a poor country, don't buy things which accept credit cards.  Heck, you should only be using your credit card (or debit etc) at ATM's anyway.  There is a huge markup at these 'nice' shops.  Instead, buy things from individuals hawking them well outside of the tourist area.  Not only will you get a better deal but you put money directly into the pockets of the people to whom it makes a great deal of difference.  But mainly, you get a better deal.


Use liquid soap:  With a bar you always have three choices:  Try to dry it and stick it in a bag (lot of work for little result), keep it in a soap dish (inevitably it leaks) or buy them for each place you go (extra weight and waste).  The liquid soap in a plastic bottle is easy to carry and doesn't get disgusting in repeated use.  Also, it doesn't mess up your bag.



VIDEOS

Bus tour 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11



TV SHOW REVIEW

I've been watching 'Jonathan Creek'.  Interesting but as with all British TV (compared to American) painfully slow.

It's like Sherlock Holmes (pick one) except that the audience has a good chance of actually solving the crime.



STRANGE DREAMS

Had a weird dream I was writing a book and when I woke up I felt compelled to write down what I'd written in the dream.  I suspect it's the weird rum here - it causes the spirit of Hemingway to enter your body and make you write.  Not well, but make you write.

If a time travel offered you the choice between death and exile, which would you take?  Exile seems the most likely.  Nope.  Death?  No.  The answer is neither and with a lot of bitching and whining.  And that's after they believe it.

Not the way I'd do it at all.  Kidnap and replace with the double.  Take them to the future and say "Do you want all this or death?"  If they choose death, boom - done.  "But we're not murderers!"  Not unless you count the poor clones.

Instead of just pulling the whole switch in a quick shuffle, we have to interview them and get all touchy feely with their feelings.  Look buddy - I get that you love your wife but no you can't take her with you.  Fuck no you can't tell her you're dead and getting taken off to the future to be a living zoo exhibit while your clone gets the bullet in it's head.  Hell, how do you think she'd feel knowing you are getting loads of adoring students and an elongated life while she gets stuck burying a corpse with half it's head missing?  And that she isn't going to get taken off with you?

Where it all went wrong with me was probably Martin Luther King.  It might have been my off color joke that we were just now getting to him years after the program had been going because he was black.  Probably not funny.  And then there's always the problem of getting him alone.  What an entourage that guy had.  Then, I gotta convince him to go.

I beg him to let us switch him out with the clone at the last moment.  Nobody will know.  He tells me that if he is fated to die and become a martyr he won't base that legacy on a lie.  I bite back telling him he should come with me back to the holy land and see the schmo they built all them churches to.  But I keep quiet.  People only believe what they want to believe.  He won't let me take him.  And that's not the worst part.  The boys upstairs start accusing me of not wiping his memory.  Or doing a botched job of it.  The shrinks are saying that after I meet up with the man they see tiredness and resignation in his eyes.

Keep tellin' them of course I zapped him.  Don't think they believe me.   Did I zap him?  Yeah, sure.  Sure I did.  He was a class act.



PHILOSOPHY

"The worst thing about being an atheist is the inability to effectively blaspheme." - Logan Horsford



PRICES

In Cusco, around 50 sols for a private room seems pretty average.  You can get them cheaper but they are fairly terrible.  Even the 50 sols ones aren't that great.